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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Style guide · Shalwar and trousers

Straight Trousers for Kameez: The Everyday Classic

Quick answer

Straight trousers fall in an even line from the hip to the hem, neither tapered nor flared. They are the everyday workhorse: easy to move in, smart enough for work, and they go with almost any kameez. They take about 2 metres of fabric, and the width of the trouser bottom is the choice that shapes the look.

Illustration

What it is

The leg runs straight down from the fullest part of the hip, so the hem opening is about the same width as the knee. Straight trousers usually have a full elastic or half-elastic waist and no front fastening. They are a little roomier through the thigh and calf than cigarette pants, and much narrower than a palazzo. A wider trouser bottom looks relaxed; a narrower one moves towards a cigarette pant.

Who and what it suits

  • Office, campus and errands: comfortable at a desk and on your feet, and neat under a coat or shawl. See our work and campus ideas.
  • Almost any kameez: long straight, A-line and short kurtas all work, which makes straight trousers the safest choice for a new suit.
  • Angrakha and wrap styles: a plain straight trouser keeps the crossover panel of an angrakha the focus.
  • Most figures: the even line skims fuller hips and thighs without clinging.
  • Printed kameez: plain trousers in a colour taken from the print. Our guide to matching dupatta and trouser colours has more ideas.

Fabric and how much you need

Cotton, cambric, lawn and linen all make good straight trousers, and khaddar and karandi make warm ones for winter. Thin or pale lawn can be see-through, so ask for lining if that’s a concern.

As a rough guide, straight trousers take about 2 metres of 45 inch (114 cm) fabric, a little more for taller wearers and larger sizes. That means the trouser piece in a standard unstitched suit is usually enough, often with room to use its border at the hem. You can also ask for side-seam pockets.

Measurements that matter

Give your trouser length from the natural waist, measured in your usual shoes; most people like straight trousers ending around the ankle. The trouser bottom sets the width of the leg, so measure a pair whose width you like, laid flat and doubled. For a closer fit, add your hip and thigh. If you wear trousers below the natural waist, tell us, so the length and rise come out right; our trouser fit guide explains the rise.

How to ask for it

Choose “Straight” under trouser style on the stitching quote form, give your trouser length and trouser bottom, and add the waistband, pockets, lining or hem finish in the notes. Measurements can be in inches or centimetres, and everything is agreed in writing before cutting.

Common questions

What is the difference between straight trousers and cigarette pants?

Straight trousers keep the same width from the knee to the hem. Cigarette pants taper to a narrow hem just above the ankle and fit closer through the leg.

Can I have pockets in straight trousers?

Yes. Side-seam pockets suit straight trousers well. Mention them in the notes on your quote and they’re confirmed in your design approval.

Last reviewed 30 September 2026.

Softly wrinkled white cotton fabric in natural light

Ready when you are

Choose it, we’ll stitch it

Tell us the styles you like, send your measurements and fabric photos, and we’ll send a written quote. Every detail is agreed in writing before we cut.

No commitment until you approve your written quote.