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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Glossary

Stitching words, explained

The words tailors and customers use for the parts of a suit, measurements and finishes, in English, Roman Urdu and Urdu, with a link to the guide for each one.

Parts of a suit

Galaگلا
The neckline of a kameez or kurta. A “gala design” is the neckline shape and finish. Read the guide
Bazuبازو
Literally the arm; in stitching it usually means the sleeve design (“bazu design”). Read the guide
Aasteenآستین
The sleeve of a garment. Read the guide
Damanدامن
The hem or lower edge of the kameez. “Gol daman” is a curved hem. Read the guide
Chaakچاکchaak, chak
The side slit of a kameez, from the hem up towards the hip. Read the guide
Gheraگھیرا
The width around the hem. A bigger ghera means a fuller, more flared kameez. Read the guide
Kaliکلی
A tapered panel that adds flare; a kameez made of many kalis is a kalidar kameez or frock. Read the guide
Painchaپائنچہpaincha, poncha
The bottom opening of a shalwar or trousers, and its finish. Read the guide
Nalaناڑاnala, naara
The drawstring threaded through the waist of a shalwar. Read the guide

Measuring words

Naapناپ
A measurement, or a set of measurements for stitching. Read the guide
Naap ka suit
A kameez that fits well, sent to the tailor so the measurements can be copied from it. Read the guide
Chaati / seenaچھاتی / سینہchaati, seena
Bust or chest measurement. Read the guide
Kamarکمر
Waist measurement. Read the guide
Koolhaکولہا
Hip measurement. Read the guide
Kandhaکندھا
Shoulder measurement, across the back from one shoulder point to the other. Read the guide
Lambaiلمبائی
Length: of the kameez, the sleeve or the trousers. Read the guide
Ease
The extra room added to your body measurements so a garment is comfortable to move in. Read the guide

Trims and finishing

Pipingپائپنگ
A narrow folded or corded strip sewn into an edge, often in a contrast colour. Read the guide
Pattiپٹی
A strip of fabric used as a border on a neckline, sleeve or hem. Read the guide
Laceلیس
Decorative trim set along or inside an edge. Read the guide
Gotaگوٹاgota, gota kinari
Metallic ribbon trim, often used for festive outfits and dupatta edges. Read the guide
Facing
A shaped piece of fabric sewn inside an edge (such as a neckline) so it lies flat and neat.
Lining (astar)استرastar
A second layer inside a garment, used under sheer fabric or for structure. Read the guide

Garments

Kameez / qameezقمیضqameez
The long shirt or tunic of a shalwar kameez. Read the guide
Kurta / kurtiکرتا / کرتیkurta, kurti
A tunic top; a kurti is usually shorter. Read the guide
Shalwarشلوارshalwar, salwar
Full trousers gathered at the waist and narrowing at the ankle. Read the guide
Churidarچوڑی دار
Narrow trousers cut long so they gather in rings at the ankle. Read the guide
Dupattaدوپٹہ
The long scarf worn with a suit. Read the guide
Three-piece suit
A kameez, trousers or shalwar, and a dupatta. A two-piece suit usually has no dupatta. Read the guide

Buying and ordering

Unstitched suitan-sila suit
Fabric sold uncut, usually with separate pieces for the kameez, trousers and dupatta, to be stitched to your measurements. Read the guide
Pret
Short for prêt-à-porter: ready-to-wear clothes sold already stitched in standard sizes.
Silaiسلائی
Stitching; also the charge for stitching. Read the guide
Darziدرزی
Tailor. Read the guide
Stitching Only
Our service where you supply suitable fabric, such as an unstitched suit, and we cut, stitch and finish it. Read the guide
Fabric + Stitching
Our service where we supply the agreed fabric and make your outfit. Read the guide
Softly wrinkled white cotton fabric in natural light

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