Journal
Guides from the workbench
Straight answers to the questions we’re asked most, written to help you choose fabric, style and fit, and order with confidence.
20 guides
Fabrics and care
Lawn, cambric, chiffon, khaddar and more: what each fabric is like to wear, stitch and look after.
- 4 min readHow to wash and care for lawn, chiffon and embroidered suitsWashing, drying, ironing and storing lawn, cambric, chiffon and embroidered Pakistani suits: how to stop colours bleeding and keep embroidery and zari looking new.Read
- 4 min readDoes my kameez need lining? When to line a kameez, dupatta or trousersWhen a kameez or dupatta needs lining, from sheer lawn and chiffon to organza and net, which lining to choose, full or half lining, and how much extra it takes.Read
- 4 min readKhaddar, karandi, marina or linen? Winter fabrics for UK weatherKhaddar, karandi, marina, linen, cotton silk and velvet shawls compared for warmth, drape and feel, with stitching tips for Pakistani winter suits in UK weather.Read
- Chiffon for kameez and dupattas: how to wear it and have it stitched
- Organza beyond formal wear: sleeves, dupattas and overlays for every day
- Jacquard suits explained: woven patterns and how to cut them
- Cotton silk and raw silk: the in-between fabrics for Eid and gatherings
- Net and lace fabrics: sleeves, dupattas and how to line them
- Dobby, slub and textured cottons: everyday fabrics with character
- Viscose and rayon kurtas: soft drape, shrinkage and care
- Georgette vs chiffon: which drapes better for your outfit?
- How to judge the quality of an unstitched suit before you buy
- The colour-fastness test to do before any suit is stitched
- How to iron and steam kurtas, lawn and chiffon without damage
- Storing dupattas and embroidered suits: folds, moths and damp
- Removing common stains from lawn and cotton (safely)
- Should you pre-wash fabric before stitching?
- Fabric widths explained: 36, 44 and 58 inch and why they matter
- Block print, digital print and screen print: what you are buying
- Making your suits last longer: rotation, repairs and restyling
19 guides
Styles and design
Necklines, sleeves, cuts, trousers and finishing details, and how to describe what you want.
- 4 min readDupatta finishing ideas: edges, lace, tassels and borders for everyday and EidRolled hems, piping, lace, tassels, pom-poms, gota and embroidered borders for a dupatta: how each finish looks, wears and washes, and which suits everyday or Eid.Read
- 4 min readA-line vs straight kameez: which cut suits you?How a straight and an A-line kameez differ in shape, fit and fabric, which suits your frame and trousers, and what to tell your tailor about hem width and slits.Read
- 4 min readPeplum tops and short kurtis with trousers and jeansHow peplum tops and short kurtis are cut, where the waist seam and hem should sit, and which trousers and jeans to wear them with for work, campus and weekends.Read
- Kurta plackets and buttons: fastenings that look finished
- Piping, lace and trims: small details that change a kameez
- Adding pockets to kurtas and kameez: side seam, patch or hidden
- Co-ord sets: matching tops and trousers for work and weekends
- Kaftan-style kameez: easy shapes for heat and comfort
- Gharara and sharara for Eid and gatherings: styles, fabric and fit
- Choosing suit colours that suit your skin tone: a gentle, rule-free guide
- Pairing printed and plain pieces in a three-piece suit
- Modest dressing: sleeves, necklines and lengths that work together
- Made-to-measure Western dresses and skirts: what to ask for
- Collar styles for kurtas: band, shirt, Peter Pan and more
- Yokes and panels: using fabric details to shape a kameez
- Matching dupatta and trouser colours to your kameez
- How to brief a tailor with screenshots and reference photos
- Made-to-measure tunics and long shirts for everyday wear
- Machine or hand embroidery on a made-to-measure kameez: which to choose?
23 guides
Fit, measuring and alterations
Measuring well, getting the fit right for your shape, and general guides to what a tailor can change on clothes you already own.
- 4 min readHow long should your kameez be? Choosing the right length for your heightHow to choose kameez and kurta length for petite and tall figures, from hip to calf length, how to pair each length with trousers, and how to measure your length.Read
- 4 min readAltering a ready-made Pakistani suit in the UK: what can and can’t be changedTaking in, letting out, shortening and re-necking pret Pakistani suits in the UK: what a tailor can change, what can’t, and when a new outfit is the better choice.Read
- 4 min readCommon measuring mistakes, and how to avoid themThe measuring slips that spoil a made-to-measure kameez, from a tilted tape to mixed units and guessed lengths, and the quick checks that catch them before you send.Read
- Measuring yourself without help: a practical method
- Using a kameez that fits as your template
- Ease explained: how loose should a kameez be?
- Fitting tips for petite women: proportions, lengths and cuts
- Fitting tips for curvy and plus-size women
- Maternity kurtas and adjustable fits for a changing shape
- Nursing-friendly kurtas: openings that stay discreet
- Armhole and shoulder fit problems, and how measurements fix them
- Trouser fit: rise, waist and length for shalwars and straight trousers
- UK, EU and US dress sizes: why measurements beat sizes for a kameez
- Letting out a kameez: how much seam allowance is there?
- Shortening a kameez without losing an embroidered border
- Changing a kameez neckline: what is possible
- Taking in a kameez at the sides, waist and sleeves
- Altering sleeve length and width on a kameez or kurta
- Hemming trousers and shalwars, including cuffs and lace
- Restyling an old suit into something you will wear again
- Resizing a hand-me-down or gifted suit
- When an alteration is not worth it, and what to do instead
- How to measure yourself for a shalwar kameez
23 guides
Unstitched suits
Reading packs and labels, buying, photographing and posting your suit for stitching.
- 5 min readHow to read an unstitched suit label: pieces, lengths and fabricWhat the label on an unstitched suit tells you: which pieces are in the pack, how long each one is, what the fabric names mean, and what to check before cutting.Read
- 4 min readTwo-piece vs three-piece unstitched suits: which should you buy?What one, two and three-piece unstitched suits include, when a two-piece is the smarter buy, and how to add a dupatta or trousers later without a mismatch.Read
- 4 min readWhat’s inside an embroidered lawn pack, piece by pieceEmbroidered fronts, printed backs, sleeves, neckline patches, daaman borders, trouser lace and chiffon dupattas: what each piece in an embroidered lawn pack is for.Read
- Using the neckline pieces and borders from your pack
- Buying unstitched suits from Pakistan online when you live abroad
- The lawn collection season: when brands release and what to expect
- Choosing an unstitched suit for work
- What to do if your unstitched suit is short of fabric
- Choosing lining for an unstitched suit: colour, fabric and how much
- Printed vs embroidered unstitched suits: which should you choose?
- Luxury pret vs luxury unstitched lawn: which is right for you?
- How to photograph your fabric for a stitching quote
- How to post your fabric or unstitched suit for stitching
- Gifting an unstitched suit, and making sure it can be stitched to fit
- Storing unstitched suits until you are ready to stitch them
- Recreating the look from a brand’s catalogue photo
- Brand size charts vs made-to-measure: which gives the better fit?
- Dupatta sizes and styles explained
- Indian dress material vs Pakistani unstitched suits: what’s the difference?
- Buying fabric by the metre for a kameez
- How much fabric does a three-piece shalwar kameez need?
- Stitched vs unstitched: what an “unstitched set” means and which to buy
- How to get your unstitched Pakistani suit stitched when you live in the UK, step by step
21 guides
Occasions and ordering
Every day, work, Eid and gatherings, plus ordering from the UK, Europe and the USA.
- 4 min readPlanning your Eid outfit: a simple timeline from fabric to finished outfitWhen to buy fabric, when to ask for a stitching quote, which design details to decide first and what to have ready, so you leave plenty of time before Eid.Read
- 4 min readSummer outfits for hot weather, from Houston to RomeCool, breathable kurtas and lawn suits for humid Houston, dry Roman heat and the odd UK heatwave: the fabrics, cuts, sleeves and colours that keep you comfortable.Read
- 4 min readAutumn layering with kurtas, cardigans and coatsHow to layer kurtas and kameez for autumn: fabrics to choose, sleeve and length choices that sit well under coats, and pairing cardigans, shawls and ankle boots.Read
- Spring lawn outfit ideas: fresh ways to wear this season’s suits
- Office-wear kurtas for women: cuts, fabrics and details for work
- University and campus outfits that are easy to live in
- Travel-friendly kurtas: fabrics that pack well
- Ramadan outfits: comfort and modesty for long days
- Eid ul-Adha outfit ideas: festive, practical and made to measure
- Chand raat outfit ideas: comfortable, colourful and mehndi-ready
- Dawat and dinner-party outfits: what to wear as a guest or host
- Coordinated outfits for sisters and friends
- Simple, modest outfits for Friday prayers
- Ordering made-to-measure stitching from the USA
- Ordering made-to-measure stitching from Italy
- Ordering from Europe: customs, delivery and paying
- Measuring in inches or centimetres: getting it right either way
- Planning ahead for made-to-measure: why earlier is easier
- What to look for in your written quote
- Paying from abroad: pounds, euros or dollars
- Your first order: a simple checklist
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