Journal
Guides from the workbench
Straight answers to the questions we’re asked most, written to help you choose fabric, style and fit, and order with confidence.
New buying guides
Custom abayas, explained
Prices, fabrics, embroidery, colours and occasions: the questions to settle before you order a made-to-measure abaya.
Design preview5 min readHow to measure for a women’s leather jacketHow to measure for a women’s leather jacket: shoulders, chest, waist, sleeve and body length, body or garment numbers, and where a cropped or hip hem sits.Read 
Design preview5 min readHow should a women’s leather jacket fit? Biker, racer, bomber and croppedHow a women’s leather jacket should fit at the shoulders, chest, sleeves and hem, and how that changes for biker, racer, bomber and cropped shapes.Read 
Design preview4 min readOrdering a made-to-measure abaya in CanadaHow to order a made-to-measure abaya in Canada: measuring at home, nida, crepe or chiffon, any colour, the matching scarf, quote currency and making time.Read 
4 min readEid outfits in Canada: planning for Eid al-Fitr 2027Eid outfits in Canada for Eid al-Fitr 2027, expected around 9 to 11 March: planning a made-to-measure outfit for a cold morning, and why to order early.Read
218 guides
Fabrics and care
Lawn, cambric, chiffon, khaddar and more: what each fabric is like to wear, stitch and look after.
- 4 min readHow to get creases and crush marks out of velvetHow to get creases out of velvet: steam it from the reverse, lift flattened pile with a soft brush, and know which crush marks and shiny patches will not come back.Read
- 4 min readHow to sew a loose button back on a kurtaHow to sew a button back on a kurta, step by step: flat, shank and fabric-covered buttons and a hook and eye, with the right thread and a little slack under each.Read
- 4 min readPerfume and attar marks on clothes: removal and preventionHow to remove perfume stains from clothes, why attar and oud oil leave yellow rings, how to treat washable fabric, and where to put scent so it stays off silk.Read
- Can you machine wash a linen kurta?
- How often should you wash a shalwar kameez?
- How to starch a cotton suit at home (kalaf)
- How to get curry and cooking smells out of clothes
- Does sunlight remove turmeric stains from clothes?
- Colour ran in the wash: how to rescue the other clothes
- Sweat smell that stays in clothes after washing
- How to remove an oil stain that has already been washed
- How to remove tea stains from clothes, fresh or dried
- White deodorant marks on dark clothes: quick fixes
- How to keep black suits and trousers from fading
- Does cotton keep shrinking every time you wash it?
379 guides
Styles and design
Necklines, sleeves, cuts, trousers and finishing details, and how to describe what you want.
- Design preview5 min readHow should a women’s leather jacket fit? Biker, racer, bomber and croppedHow a women’s leather jacket should fit at the shoulders, chest, sleeves and hem, and how that changes for biker, racer, bomber and cropped shapes.Read
- 4 min readHow to design a personalised hoodieHow to design a personalised hoodie you will actually wear: the fit and length, the colour, what to embroider, where it goes and what to send us.Read
- 5 min readPreparing a brief for a clothing manufacturerFor boutiques and brands: what to put in a clothing manufacturing brief, from references and specs to fabric, embroidery, sizes, quantities, labels and dates.Read
- What colour should your first formal suit be?
- Beige, fawn, camel or skin: which neutral is which?
- How to find your skin undertone at home
- What counts as a neutral colour in clothes?
- Rani pink, magenta, fuchsia or shocking pink?
- What goes with a royal blue suit? Contrast ideas
- Warm undertone: which suit colours flatter you?
- Which colours suit almost everyone?
- Do large prints suit petite women?
- What colours to wear with grey hair
- Does colour analysis work for South Asian skin?
- How big is the print? Judging print size from a photo
158 guides
Fit, measuring and alterations
Measuring well, getting the fit right for your shape, and general guides to what a tailor can change on clothes you already own.
- Design preview5 min readHow to measure for a women’s leather jacketHow to measure for a women’s leather jacket: shoulders, chest, waist, sleeve and body length, body or garment numbers, and where a cropped or hip hem sits.Read
- 3 min readWhy do buttons gape at the bust, and how to stop itButtons gape at the bust when the front has too little room or no button sits at the fullest point. Why it happens on shirt dresses and kurtas, and what to ask for.Read
- 3 min readElastic or drawstring waist: which is more comfortable?Elastic vs drawstring waist for a shalwar or trousers: how each adjusts, sits under a fitted kameez and wears over time, and when a zipped waistband is better.Read
- Kameez clinging to the tummy: room without a tent
- Why do my trousers sag at the seat?
- Why does my waistband gape at the back?
- Trousers tight at the thighs: what to ask for
- How should a shirt dress fit?
- Does a kameez need bust darts?
- Why do my trousers pull or pinch when I sit down?
- How baggy should a shalwar be?
- How to describe a fit problem so it gets solved
- Why do my kameez side slits pull open?
- Does a khaddar or karandi kameez need more room?
- Sleeves always too short? Ordering for long arms
103 guides
Unstitched suits
Reading packs and labels, buying, photographing and posting your suit for stitching.
- 4 min readHow much fabric for a maxi dress?How much fabric for a maxi dress? Typical metres and yards for column, A-line and tiered shapes on 44 and 58 inch fabric, plus what height and sleeves add.Read
- 4 min readHow much fabric for a farshi shalwar?How much fabric for a farshi shalwar? Typical metres and yards for a floor-length, wide shalwar by hem width, height and fabric width, and what to check first.Read
- 4 min readHow much fabric for an umbrella cut frock?How much fabric for an umbrella frock? Typical metres for half and full circle skirts at knee, calf and floor length, and why length and fabric width decide.Read
- How much fabric for a pair of sleeves?
- How much fabric for a kameez by height?
- How much 58 to 60 inch fabric for a shalwar kameez?
- Printed front panel: can the size or length change?
- Embroidered front too narrow or too wide for your size?
- Hole, pull or stain in fabric: can it be cut around?
- What an unstitched suit pack does not include
- Shirt, trouser or dupatta: which piece is which?
- How much fabric for straight trousers or cigarette pants?
- How much velvet for a kameez? Allowing for the pile
- How much fabric for a gharara?
- How much fabric for an angrakha kameez?
206 guides
Occasions and ordering
Every day, work, Eid and gatherings, plus ordering from the UK, the USA, the Gulf, Europe and beyond.
- 4 min readEid outfits in Canada: planning for Eid al-Fitr 2027Eid outfits in Canada for Eid al-Fitr 2027, expected around 9 to 11 March: planning a made-to-measure outfit for a cold morning, and why to order early.Read
Design preview5 min readFall wedding guest dresses: desi and modest outfits for the USAFall wedding guest dresses for the USA: colours for September to November, sleeves and length, desi and modest outfits, and when to order one made to measure.Read 
Design preview5 min readAutumn wedding guest dresses in the UK: what to wear and when to orderAutumn wedding guest dresses for UK weddings: rain and cold, colours for September to November, sleeves and length, and ordering a dress made to measure in time.Read
- Plus size wedding guest dresses, made to your own measurements
- Petite wedding guest dresses: lengths and proportions cut for you
- Eid al-Adha 2027: the expected date and planning your outfit in the Gulf and the UK
- Eid al-Fitr 2027: the expected date and when to order your outfit
- Anarkali suit for a wedding: how to choose one as a guest
- How to order team hoodies: a step-by-step guide
- Ordering custom traditional wear from overseas
- What to wear to a condolence visit
- What to wear on a long-haul flight
- How many outfits should you pack for umrah?
- Can a guest wear white to a nikkah?
- White or black: what to wear to a Pakistani funeral
155 guides
Abayas
Made-to-measure abayas: fabrics, cuts, sleeves and lengths, measuring, and what to ask for in your quote.
- Design preview4 min readOrdering a made-to-measure abaya in CanadaHow to order a made-to-measure abaya in Canada: measuring at home, nida, crepe or chiffon, any colour, the matching scarf, quote currency and making time.Read
Design preview7 min readHow much does a custom abaya cost?How much a custom abaya costs at The Gilded Seam: the three price tiers, what each price includes, what the written quote adds and how your own design is priced.Read - Design preview7 min readCustom abaya on a budget: where to spend and where to saveAn affordable custom abaya comes down to choices: spend on measurements, length, fabric and shape; save on embroidery, colours and quantity; skip false economies.Read
- Custom vs ready-made abaya: which should you buy?
- Custom abaya checklist: what to send and what to ask
- Abaya embroidery motifs: floral, botanical and geometric
- Black abaya with gold embroidery: a design guide
- Minimalist abayas: the quiet luxury look
- Nida, crepe or chiffon: which abaya fabric to choose?
- Evening abayas with beadwork, sequins and zari
- Bridal abayas made to measure: a planning guide
- Which abaya for which occasion? A practical guide
- Beige, taupe and champagne abayas: a neutral guide
- Burgundy abayas with embroidery: shades and pairings
- Green abayas: emerald, olive and teal shades
111 guides
Embroidery and fancy work
Embroidery, lace and borders on the outfits we stitch, and embroidery on your own fabric or garment.
- 4 min readEmbroidery or printing on a hoodie: which to chooseEmbroidery or printing on a personalised hoodie: how each is made, how they look and wear, which designs suit each, and which we use for what.Read
- 5 min readChoosing embroidery placement for a suit, piece by pieceWhere to put embroidery on a custom suit: neckline, front panel, sleeves, daman, trouser hem and dupatta border, plus density, fabric and the methods that suit each.Read
- 3 min readEmbroidery on organza: crisp, sheer and delicateEmbroidery on organza looks crisp when the work is light. How the sheer fabric shows threads, why it puckers and which placements suit it on an outfit.Read
- What is jaal embroidery? All-over patterns explained
- Types of lace for suits: names, looks and uses
- Embroidered trouser hems: what a paincha can carry
- What is kantha embroidery? Running stitch explained
- What is broderie anglaise? Eyelet embroidery explained
- Gold or silver embroidery: which suits your outfit?
- The white backing behind embroidery: leave or remove?
- Is it embroidered or printed? How to tell from a photo
- Sindhi embroidery explained: stitches, mirrors, colour
- Balochi embroidery (doch): panels, cuffs and pocket
- What width of lace suits a daman, sleeve or trouser?
- Tassels and latkans: where they work on an outfit
127 guides
Buying guides by country
Ordering custom women’s clothing from the UK, the USA, the Gulf and beyond: fabric, sizes, seasons and delivery.
- 5 min readWhat to wear to Riyadh Season: outfit ideas for womenRiyadh Season 2026 opens on 21 October. Modest outfit ideas for women for concerts, long walks and cool desert evenings, made to measure and sent to Riyadh.Read
- 5 min readDubai Shopping Festival outfits: what women wearThe Dubai Shopping Festival runs from 4 December 2026 to 17 January 2027. Outfit ideas for malls, markets and cool evenings, made to measure and sent to Dubai.Read
- 4 min readOman National Day 2026: outfit ideas for womenOman’s National Day is now 20 November, with a holiday on 20 and 21 November. Outfit ideas for women in red, white and green, made to measure and sent to Oman.Read
- Kuwaiti daraa for National Day and Hala February
- What to wear in Sharjah: dress code and Book Fair
- Batiste, voile, popeline: lawn in European fabric shops
- Batik for a kurta or kameez: panels, lengths and prints
- Cycling in a shalwar kameez: cuts for Dutch bikes
- When is Pakistani wedding season? Pakistan, UK and US
- Brustumfang, tour de poitrine: size-chart words in English
- South African dress sizes 30 to 44 in UK sizes
- 17 May in Norway: wearing a shalwar kameez
- Wash at 30°C: which setting on a US washing machine?
- Can kitenge or kanga be made into a kameez or kurta?
- Hari Raya, Bayram or Eid: what each country calls it
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