Can you wash velvet at home, or is it dry clean only?

What water does to the pile

The pile is a forest of short cut fibres standing upright. In water, viscose and silk pile swells, collapses and mats together, and it can dry in flattened, shiny patches that no steaming fully restores. The backing may shrink while the lining does not, so seams pucker, and deep jewel colours can release dye. Even a splash can leave a ring on viscose velvet. Polyester pile absorbs very little water and springs back, which is why washable velvets are nearly always polyester.

Spot cleaning a velvet suit

Most marks on a velvet kameez or shawl can be dealt with without wetting the whole piece. Test every step on an inside seam first. Oil, make-up and anything on silk or viscose velvet are jobs for a dry cleaner, who should be told what the mark is.

• Blot spills at once with a dry white cloth. Press and lift; rubbing drives the liquid in and crushes the pile.
• Let mud or food dry, then lift it off with a soft brush.
• For a mark that remains, barely dampen a white cloth with cool water and a drop of mild detergent and dab in the direction of the pile.
• Dab again with plain water on a clean cloth, then leave it to dry in the air.
• Lift the pile afterwards with steam held a short distance away and a soft clothes brush.

Airing between cleans

Velvet worn for an evening rarely needs cleaning afterwards. Hang it on a padded hanger somewhere airy and out of the sun for a day before it goes back in the wardrobe, brush it lightly with the pile to lift dust, and steam out any pressure marks from sitting. Spray perfume before you dress, not onto the fabric. Aired like this, a velvet suit can go several wears between professional cleans. Our piece on velvet for winter weddings covers looking after the pile on the day, and storing velvet covers what happens next.

Hand washing velvet that allows it

For a piece whose label shows a wash symbol, work quickly and gently. Once it is dry, steam it; never iron the face. If the label allows a machine, use a cold delicate cycle, a low spin and a mesh bag.

• Turn it inside out and wash it alone in cool water with a little mild detergent.
• Move it through the water for a few minutes. Do not rub, scrub or twist.
• Rinse in cool water until no suds remain.
• Press the water out against the side of the basin; never wring velvet.
• Hang it on a padded hanger or lay it flat, pile side up, and smooth the pile in one direction with your hand while it is damp.
• Dry it away from heat and sun, and keep it out of the tumble dryer unless the label says otherwise.

Ordering velvet with care in mind

If you want a velvet piece that is easier to look after, a short kurta or velvet trousers need cleaning less often than a full lined suit. With Fabric + Stitching, tell us how you plan to care for it, and we confirm the fabric and what is possible in your written quote. For what the wording on a label really commits you to, see dry clean only explained. Start your quote when you are ready.