Fabric guide
Velvet (Makhmal): What It Is and How to Stitch It
Also called makhmal
Quick answer
Velvet (makhmal) is a woven fabric with a short, dense pile that gives it a soft touch and deep colour. It’s a winter and occasion fabric, lovely for Eid, shawls and short kurtas. The pile means every piece is cut facing the same way, and velvet is steamed rather than ironed on the pile.
What velvet is
Velvet is a woven fabric with a short, dense pile standing up from the surface, which gives it its soft touch and glowing colour. The name describes the weave, not the fibre: velvet can be made from viscose, polyester, silk, cotton or blends, and each behaves a little differently, so check the label for the composition and care instructions. In Pakistan it’s a staple of winter and formal collections, as shawls, suits and embroidered pieces.
How it feels and when to wear it
Velvet is soft, warm and heavy, with a rich sheen that shifts with the light. It’s for winter and occasions: an Eid in the colder months, a winter dawat or an evening gathering. A full velvet kameez can feel warm indoors, so a velvet shawl, short kurta or jacket over a lighter suit is an easier way to wear it. The pile crushes under pressure, so handle it gently.
What to stitch from velvet
Velvet looks best in simple lines with few seams. A straight kameez or short kurta with a round neck or V-neck lets the fabric do the work, and straight trousers in velvet are warm and smart under a lighter kurta. Velvet yokes, cuffs or borders add richness to a plainer suit. Avoid heavy gathers and very full flares, which add bulk. Our Eid page has more ideas.
Cutting, lining and finishing
Velvet’s pile lies in one direction, and its colour looks deeper one way and lighter the other. So every piece is cut facing the same way, which can need more fabric than a plain cloth. The layers creep as they’re sewn, and pins or unpicked stitches can mark the pile, so the design and measurements are settled before cutting. A smooth lining helps velvet slide on over other layers, keeps the inside tidy and adds comfort.
Pre-washing, shrinkage and care
Don’t pre-wash velvet: water can mark or crush the pile. Washing advice differs between sources and types of velvet, with many labels saying dry clean only and some velvets sold as washable by hand. The label for your fabric decides.
- Never iron the pile: steam it from a short distance instead. Our ironing and steaming guide explains how.
- Embroidery: heavy hand embroidery such as zardozi or dabka is dry clean only.
- Store: in a breathable cotton bag rather than plastic, somewhere cool, dark and dry, with nothing heavy pressing on the pile. Our storage guide has more.
Ordering: Fabric + Stitching or Stitching Only
For Stitching Only, send daylight photos of both sides of each velvet piece and the label first. We confirm it’s suitable and that there’s enough for a same-direction layout before you send anything. For Fabric + Stitching, tell us the colour and the piece you want, such as a short kurta or a full suit; we propose fabric and agree it with you before cutting, and there are no free samples. If you’re planning for a winter Eid, start early on the stitching quote form.
Common questions
Can you iron velvet?
Not on the face: it crushes the pile and can leave a shine. Steam it from a short distance instead, after checking the label.
Why does a velvet suit need more fabric?
Because the pile catches the light differently in each direction, every piece is cut facing the same way. That limits how the pieces fit together, so a velvet design can need more fabric than the same design in cotton.
Last reviewed 30 September 2026.
