How much fabric for a farshi shalwar?

Length first: waist to floor

Fabric for any shalwar is counted in lengths. One length is the distance from your waist to the hem, plus the fold for the waistband casing and the turn-up at the bottom. For a floor-length shalwar, measure down your side from the waist to the floor in the shoes you will wear. On a woman of average height that is usually 40 to 44 inches (102 to 112 cm), and with about 5 inches (13 cm) for the casing and hem, one length comes to roughly 1.15 to 1.25 metres.

An ordinary shalwar is cut from two such lengths, with the shaped side pieces fitted into what is left. A farshi shalwar needs a third length, and the fullest versions a fourth, because the extra width at the hem has to come from extra panels. Three lengths come to about 3.5 to 3.75 metres; four come to 4.6 to 5.

Then hem width and fabric width

The hem opening, or paincha, of an everyday shalwar is often 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) across when laid flat. On a farshi shalwar it is commonly 10 to 16 inches (25 to 41 cm) across, sometimes more. Put together with your height, that gives a working guide:

• Moderately wide hem, average height: about 3.5 m (4 yards) of 44 to 45 inch fabric.
• Very wide hem, or deep pleats at the waistband: 4 to 4.5 m (4.5 to 5 yards).
• Taller than about 170 cm (5 ft 7 in), or worn with high heels: add a quarter to half a metre to either figure.
• 58 to 60 inch fabric: about 3 to 3.5 m (3.25 to 4 yards), since each panel can be cut wider. Our fabric widths article explains why.
• One-way prints and woven stripes: allow a little extra, because the panels cannot be turned to save cloth.

The hem band and the choice of fabric

A broad hem that is meant to stand open generally has something behind it: a deep turned facing, a band of the same fabric or a layer of stiffening. A deep facing uses more of the main fabric, so mention the finish you have seen when you ask. We do not promise a particular technique; what is possible on your fabric is confirmed in the quote.

Cloth with some body carries the shape more easily than a very soft one. Cambric and firm cottons hold a clean edge, and cotton silk or raw silk suit dressier versions. Fine lawn and chiffon tend to collapse at the floor unless they are lined, and the lining needs about the same amount again.

Will a suit’s trouser piece be enough?

Usually not. The trouser piece in most unstitched suits is around 2.5 metres, sized for a standard shalwar or straight trousers; our fabric guide for a three-piece suit lists the usual lengths. You can buy plain fabric by the metre in a colour from the print, settle for a narrower hem, or ask what the piece you have would allow.

Farshi is not one of the named trouser styles on our form, so describe it in the notes and attach a photo. Send the fabric width and length, your waist-to-floor measurement and the hem width you like on the Stitching Only quote form. We confirm the quantity before you post anything, as set out on the unstitched suit stitching page. If you would like us to supply the cloth, ask for Fabric + Stitching and the amount becomes our concern.