How much fabric for a Patiala shalwar?

Where all that fabric goes

Each leg of a Patiala is cut far wider than the body needs. That width is folded into deep, overlapping pleats and stitched into a waistband, often called the belt, which carries the drawstring or elastic. Below the belt the pleats open into heavy folds that fall down the sides and back, and the leg is drawn in again at the ankle into a narrow cuff.

A folded pleat hides two layers of cloth behind the one you see, so every extra pleat, and every extra inch of pleat depth, adds width to the leg piece. That is why two Patialas of the same length can differ by a metre or more.

What moves the amount up or down

Four things decide where in the range your Patiala falls:

• Pleat depth and count: a semi-Patiala has fewer, shallower pleats and a slimmer drop; a full one is pleated all round with deep folds at the back.
• Length and height: most Patialas end at the ankle, but the folds use up some of the length, so the pieces are cut longer than the finished trouser. Tall women should add about half a metre.
• Hip size: the belt has to pass over the hips, and the pleats start from there, so larger sizes need wider leg pieces.
• The fabric itself: soft, drapey cloth folds tightly and can take more pleats in the same space. Crisp cloth stands away from the leg, so it is usually pleated less.

By fabric width

Width matters less for a Patiala than for a kameez, because each leg is so wide that it often needs a join whatever the cloth. These are rough figures for an average height and size:

• 36 inch (91 cm): full about 4.5 to 5 m (4.9 to 5.5 yd); semi about 3 to 3.5 m.
• 44 to 45 inch (112 to 114 cm): full about 3.5 to 4 m; semi about 2.5 to 3 m.
• 58 to 60 inch (147 to 152 cm): full about 2.75 to 3 m (3 to 3.3 yd); semi about 2 to 2.25 m.

Choosing fabric and ordering one

Patialas look their part in soft cottons, fine lawn, voile, crepe and silk, which fall into folds rather than puffing out. Stiff winter cloth such as thick khaddar makes a bulky Patiala, and a semi cut is often the better choice there.

Patiala is not a named choice on our quote form, so pick the shalwar style and write Patiala or semi-Patiala in your notes, ideally with a photo. Our shalwar guide shows the plain version for comparison. If you are sending your own cloth through Stitching Only, tell us the metres and width in your Stitching Only quote, and we confirm before you post it whether a full or semi Patiala is possible on your fabric.