Unstitched suits · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
What is the selvedge of fabric, and is it used?
What is selvedge? The two finished woven edges along a length of cloth, what is printed or punched along them, why tailors trim them off a kameez, where they stay.
InspirationThe edge that does not fray
The selvedge is each of the two edges that run along the length of a woven fabric, where the crosswise thread turns back at the end of every row and locks the cloth so it does not unravel. Selvedge is the British spelling and selvage the American one; both come from “self edge”, an edge the cloth makes for itself.
It is often woven a little more densely than the rest of the fabric, sometimes with stronger yarns, so it can look and feel slightly different: firmer, flatter, or a touch tighter than the body of the cloth.
What you may find along it
The selvedge is the fabric’s margin, and manufacturers use it. On a length of cloth or an unstitched suit you may see some of these.
- The fabric or mill name, or the brand, printed or woven in
- Rows of small coloured dots or circles on printed cloth, used to check that each print colour lined up
- A line of tiny holes left by the pins of the frame that stretches cloth during finishing
- A narrow unprinted white or pale band beside the print
- A contrasting stripe or a short fringe of loose threads
Why it is usually trimmed off a kameez
Because it is woven more tightly, the selvedge can shrink or draw in differently from the rest of the cloth after washing, which makes a seam pucker. It may also be stiffer, and on printed fabric the unprinted band would show if it landed in the wrong place. So most tailors cut garment pieces inside the selvedge or keep it only within a hidden seam allowance, sometimes clipping it every few centimetres so it cannot pull.
Some dressmakers do use a flat, soft selvedge as a ready-finished edge on a straight seam that will never be seen, since it cannot fray. That works only when the selvedge behaves like the rest of the cloth.
Where the selvedge is kept
On many woven dupattas, the two long edges are the selvedges, which is why they often need no hem at all and only the short ends are finished. Our guide to dupatta sizes and styles shows the common finishes. The selvedge is also the reference line for the grain of the cloth, explained in our article on what fabric grain is, so a tailor uses it to lay pieces straight even when it is trimmed away later.
Usable width is measured inside it
Fabric is often sold by its full width from one selvedge to the other, but the part a tailor can actually cut from is narrower: the selvedges and any unprinted band are left out. On a narrow lawn that difference can decide whether a kameez front fits across the cloth. Our article on fabric widths explains the usual widths, and checking you have enough fabric before posting shows how to measure what you have.
If you are sending your own fabric for Stitching Only, leave it exactly as it came, selvedges and all, and include a photo of any printing along the edge, which can help identify the cloth. Start a stitching-only quote and we confirm suitability and quantity before you post anything.
Common questions
Can you sew with the selvedge?
Sometimes. On a straight seam that stays hidden, a selvedge that lies flat can serve as a ready-finished edge. If it is tighter than the cloth or puckers after a test wash, it is better trimmed off or clipped.
Should I cut the selvedge off before sending my fabric?
No. Leave the fabric as it came. The selvedge shows the grain and sometimes the fabric name, and the tailor decides what to trim when cutting.
Do knitted fabrics have a selvedge?
Not in the same way. Knits are made of loops rather than crossing threads, and their edges are often trimmed or sealed by the machine. The edge may curl, so it is usually cut away before sewing.
