Abayas · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
How wide should an abaya hem be? Slits and vents too
Abaya hem width explained: how much hem circumference straight, A-line and flared cuts need for walking and stairs, and when a slit or vent does the job.
InspirationThe working number
For a full-length abaya with no slits, the hem needs to measure at least about 150 cm all the way round for an easy walking stride, or roughly one and a half times your hip measurement if that comes to more. Below that, the cloth pulls tight across your shins before your step is finished.
Hem width, also called the sweep or, in South Asian tailoring, the ghera, is the distance around the bottom edge. It decides whether you can stride, climb stairs and step into a car, and it is separate from how much ease the abaya has at the bust or hip.
Typical hem widths by cut
These are ordinary ranges for adult sizes, not rules, and they shift with size and height.
- Straight cut: about 150 to 190 cm around. It hangs in a clean column and gives just enough for walking.
- A-line: about 200 to 280 cm. It widens steadily from the underarm or hip and never restricts the stride. See the A-line abaya guide.
- Flared: about 3 to 4 metres. There is visible movement, and more cloth to manage when you sit.
- Umbrella: from about 4 metres up to 6 or more. It is built from many panels and swings as you walk; see umbrella and flared abayas.
Measure one you own, then test your stride
To find the hem width of an abaya you already have, lay it flat, measure straight across the bottom edge from side to side and double the figure. Our guide to measuring an abaya you already own shows the method.
To test a number before you commit to it, tie a length of string into a loop of that circumference, step into it and hold it at ankle height, then walk at your normal pace and climb a few stairs. If the loop stops your foot, the hem would too. Tall women and fast walkers need more than the minimum, and so does anyone who climbs into a high car or carries a child on one hip.
When a slit or vent does the job instead
More hem is not the only way to gain stride. If you like a slim column, an opening adds movement without adding cloth.
- Side slits: openings at one or both side seams, usually from the knee or mid-calf down. Simple and effective, but they show the layer beneath with every step. Our page on chaak side slits shows the idea on a kameez.
- Back vent: a single overlapped opening at the centre back, as on a coat. It stays closed when you stand and opens as you walk.
- Kick pleat: a pleat with cloth folded behind it, so the hem expands without revealing anything.
- Godets: triangular panels let into the lower seams, adding width only at the bottom.
The cost of a very wide hem
Flare is lovely in motion, but it comes at a cost. A wider hem uses more fabric, weighs more, catches more wind, gathers around the feet on stairs and has to be lifted into your lap when you drive. A very full hem can also drop unevenly with time. If you are sending your own cloth under Stitching Only, the amount needed rises with the flare, and we confirm the quantity before you post anything. If tripping is your worry, why you trip on your abaya separates width problems from length problems.
Giving hem width in your quote
When you ask for a made-to-measure abaya, you can give the hem as a figure in centimetres, as a copy of an abaya you own, or in words such as “straight with a back vent” or “A-line, moderate flare”. Add your height and how you get about each day. Send it through the quote form, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote.
Common questions
What does ghera mean on an abaya?
Ghera is the Urdu and Hindi tailoring word for the fullness or circumference of a hem. An abaya described as having a large ghera has a wide, flared bottom edge; a small ghera means a straighter cut.
Do side slits make an abaya less covering?
They open to show whatever is beneath, so it depends on the layer you wear under them. With full-length trousers or an inner dress nothing is exposed. If you prefer no opening at all, ask for a kick pleat or more hem width instead.
Is a wider hem better for plus sizes?
A hem should grow with the hip measurement, so a larger size needs a wider hem to give the same freedom of stride. An A-line cut usually achieves this more gracefully than widening a straight cut.
