Abaya vs kaftan: the difference, and the kaftan abaya

How the two differ in the making

Regional names add to the mix: in the Gulf, a loose embellished house dress of this kind is often called a jalabiya, and the Moroccan kaftan is a formal, belted gown with a long history of its own. Taking the kaftan in its general sense, these are the usual differences from an abaya.

• Neckline: kaftans often have a V or a slit that sits lower, because they are dresses. Abayas usually keep a higher, simpler neck that a scarf covers easily.
• Sleeves: a classic kaftan has no separate sleeve. The body is a wide rectangle, stitched up the sides some way in from the edge, and the spare width falls over the arms. Abayas come with every kind of sleeve, from narrow and set-in to wide.
• Front: kaftans are nearly always closed and pulled over the head. Abayas may be closed, open or fastened.
• Decoration: kaftans carry it at the neck, cuffs and sometimes all over, in print or embroidery. Everyday abayas are plainer, with detail kept to the edges.
• Fabric: kaftans are made in anything from printed cotton to brocade. Abayas favour plain, opaque, fluid cloths.
• Waist: a kaftan may be belted or drawn in with inner ties. An abaya is usually left loose.

What a kaftan abaya is

Sellers use kaftan abaya, farasha and butterfly abaya for much the same idea: a very wide garment in which body and sleeves are one piece. Our butterfly abaya guide describes the shape in detail. What makes it an abaya and not a kaftan is the brief: opaque single-layer cloth, a modest neckline, full length, and enough room to go over an outfit.

It is a popular choice for Ramadan evenings and for hosting, because it looks dressed while feeling like loungewear; see abayas for Ramadan evenings for ideas.

What to specify when you ask for one

We make abayas to measure, and a kaftan-shaped one is easiest to describe feature by feature. We confirm in the written quote what is possible on your fabric and design. If it is the dress version you want, say so in the same enquiry; our article on the kaftan-style kameez shows the shape at kameez length.

Send a photo on the design quote form with these details:

• Use: over clothes, or on its own as a dress. This decides opacity, lining and how deep the neck can be.
• Wingspan: the width from wrist to wrist, or simply where on your arm the edge should fall.
• Side seams: stitched close to the body for a neater line with more arm cover, or further out for more sweep.
• Neckline: round, V or slit, and how high. Our guide to abaya collars and necklines shows the range.
• Waist: left loose, with inner ties, or with a separate belt.
• Length and hem: full length in your shoes, with a level hem or one that dips at the sides.
• Trim: any embroidery or lace you would like at the neck and cuffs.