Kaftan-style kameez: easy shapes for heat and comfort

Shapes and details

Hems can be straight, curved or high-low, and many kaftans have deep side slits so the hem opens as you walk. Embellishment usually sits at the neckline, where it frames the face, or along the sleeve edges, which catch the eye as you move. The main shapes are:

• Classic kaftan: a wide rectangle with cut-on sleeves and a slit, round or V neckline. The most relaxed version.
• Dolman or batwing kameez: sleeves cut in one with the body, with a deep armhole that tapers towards the elbow or wrist. Looser than a regular kameez but closer than a full kaftan.
• Waist-tie kaftan: a drawstring or ties inside the back or at the sides pull in the waist when you want shape, and release when you do not.
• Kaftan kurta: a shorter, top-length version for trousers or jeans.

Why fabric width matters

Because the sleeves are cut in one piece with the body, the width of the fabric limits how wide a kaftan can be. A standard 45 inch (114 cm) width gives a moderate kaftan or a dolman shape; the generous, wrist-to-wrist look usually needs wider fabric, or extra panels joined to extend the sleeves. Our fabric widths guide explains the numbers.

Length matters as much as width. A calf or floor-length kaftan can use more fabric than a standard kameez piece, so send photos of the label and every piece and we’ll confirm what yours allows. Side slits help a longer kaftan move, and a simple neckline suits the shape best; our neckline guide has the options.

Fabrics and prints for heat and comfort

Prints behave differently on a kaftan. The front is one broad, uninterrupted panel, so a large print shows at its best, while a busy small print can make all that volume look shapeless. A printed border from a suit pack looks natural along the hem or sleeve edges.

• Lawn and voile: light and cool, the obvious choice for summer. Pale colours may need a slip underneath.
• Cotton and cambric: a little more body, so the kaftan holds its shape and looks tidier.
• Viscose and rayon: soft and fluid, lovely in a kaftan. See our viscose guide.
• Linen: cool and textured, though it creases.
• Chiffon and georgette: floaty for Eid and dinners, over a slip or lined.

Coverage, trousers and ordering

Wide sleeves can show the side of the body when you lift your arms. If that matters to you, ask for the sides to be stitched closed further down, a narrower sleeve opening, or a close-fitting inner layer. A waist tie helps too, on windy days or when you want a smarter look for work. Our modest dressing guide has more on combining coverage and comfort.

Slim or straight trousers balance the volume of a kaftan best; very wide trousers under a wide kaftan can swamp you. See our trouser styles guide.

On the stitching quote form, describe the kaftan, add a reference photo and give your bust, hips, length and sleeve length. The fit is relaxed, but the neckline, length and slits still need to be right. If you have a loose top or kaftan whose shoulder line and sleeve length you like, measure it and add the numbers to your notes. The custom stitching page explains the rest.