Between sizes: size up, size down or send measurements?

Which measurement decides, garment by garment

First find out where you are between sizes. Compare your bust, waist and hips with the reference chart on our size guide: many women are one size at the bust and another at the hips, which is a different problem from being midway on everything.

• Kameez or kurta with sleeves: shoulders first, then bust. Side seams are simple to take in; shoulders and armholes are not.
• Long straight kameez: check the hips as well. If your hips are the larger size and the side slits start low, the kameez strains when you sit, so the hips decide.
• Sleeveless or kaftan-style top: bust.
• Dress with a shaped top and a loose skirt: bust. A tiered maxi dress has plenty of room below the bodice.
• Button-front dress or shirt: bust, so the buttons lie flat, then hips. Our shirt dress is this kind of shape.
• Straight or cigarette trousers: hips. A waistband is easier to adjust than a seat.
• Shalwar and wide trousers: length matters more than size, because the waist adjusts.
• Abaya: shoulders and length.

Size up or size down?

In woven fabrics such as lawn, cambric, linen and chiffon, size up. A garment that is slightly generous can be taken in; one that is too small can only be let out by whatever spare fabric is inside the seams, which is often very little. Sizing down makes sense only when the style is cut loose on purpose, such as an oversized kurta or kaftan, or when the fabric stretches.

Remember what comes with a bigger size, though. Everything grows together: the shoulders widen, the sleeves lengthen and the neckline opens. If the larger size suits your hips but slides off your shoulders, no size on that chart is right for you, and that is the point where measurements beat sizes. Our comparison of brand size charts and made to measure goes into why.

On our quote form: “Between sizes” or your own numbers

The stitching quote form gives you four ways to tell us your size: enter your measurements, pick a standard UK size, send a garment that fits, or ask for help measuring. The standard size list runs from UK 6 to UK 24 and ends with “Between sizes”. Where one of our own designs is offered in S to XL, you can have it made to your measurements instead of choosing a size.

• Choose “Between sizes” if you know your two UK sizes but cannot measure right now. Say in the notes which part of you is which, for example “UK 12 bust, UK 14 hips”, and we confirm the key measurements with you before cutting.
• Enter measurements if your top and bottom halves are more than one size apart, if your shoulders are narrow or broad for your size, if you are much taller or shorter than average, or if the design is closely fitted.
• Ask for help if you have never measured yourself. The measuring help page explains how we guide you through it.

Why measurements are the easy option

Entering your own numbers takes about ten minutes with a soft tape, and after that you only decide what you want: how long, how loose, which neckline. Each part of the outfit is cut to the matching part of you, so “between sizes” stops meaning anything. The measurements are written into the quote for you to check before you approve it.

Custom stitching explains the two service options, and UK, EU and US sizes for a kameez covers converting labels if you shop across countries.