Sleeves too tight on the upper arm: what to ask for

Why sleeves scaled from the bust squeeze

A size chart starts from the bust, waist and hips and works out everything else in proportion. When the pattern is enlarged for the next size up, the sleeve gains only a small amount of width for every step in the bust. Two women with the same bust can easily differ by several centimetres around the upper arm, so one of them gets a sleeve that grips.

There is a second reason, and it explains why “just make the sleeve wider” is only half an answer. The curved top edge of a sleeve has to match the armhole it is sewn into. A wider sleeve has a longer top edge, so the armhole must grow or change shape to take it. If only the sleeve is widened, the extra is crammed into a small armhole and the tightness moves up to the front of the shoulder. Our article on how an armhole should fit describes what to aim for there.

How much room a sleeve needs

Woven fabrics such as lawn, cambric and chiffon do not stretch, so the room has to be cut in. As general guidance, a close sleeve in a woven fabric is usually about 4 to 5 cm (roughly 1.5 to 2 inches) bigger than the relaxed upper arm, and a comfortable everyday sleeve has more. With less, the sleeve creases in tight rings, rides up when you bend your elbow and drags at the armhole when you lift a bag.

• The pinch check: on a sleeve you own, pinch the spare fabric at the fullest part of your arm. A fold about 2 cm deep means about 4 cm of room. If there is nothing to pinch, the sleeve is too tight.
• The bend check: bend your arm fully. The upper arm gets bigger as the muscle shortens, so a sleeve that is only just comfortable on a straight arm will bind.
• The elbow: a full or three-quarter sleeve needs room to fold at the elbow too, and an elbow-length sleeve should end clear of the bend, not on it.
• Sheer and lined sleeves: chiffon, organza and net show strain quickly and can pull apart at the seams, and a lined sleeve has two layers resisting you. Both need a touch more room, not less.

The two numbers to send

Both are on our size guide. The armhole is optional there and the upper arm is one of the extra measurements, so they are easy to skip. If sleeves are usually tight on you, do not skip them.

• Upper arm: around the fullest part, usually a little below the armpit, with the arm hanging relaxed and the tape snug but not denting the skin. Measure both arms and give the larger.
• Armhole: around the top of the arm, passing under the armpit and over the shoulder point.
• How you like a sleeve to feel: in plain words, such as “close, but I can push it up to my elbow” or “loose, I dislike anything touching my upper arm”.
• For fitted full sleeves: add your elbow, measured bent, and your forearm, so the sleeve narrows where your arm does and not where a chart does.

Sleeve shapes that are easier on fuller arms

The cut matters as well as the number. A straight sleeve that keeps its width to the hem is kinder to a fuller arm than one that tapers sharply. Three-quarter sleeves end below the elbow where the arm is slimmer, and bell sleeves open out from the elbow. None of these replaces enough room at the top of the arm.

If you are sending a design photo, say that the sleeve should follow your upper arm even if the picture shows a very slim one. Ask for it in your quote, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design. On Stitching Only orders, mention whether your suit has separate sleeve pieces, since their width limits the sleeve; we confirm the fabric is suitable before you post it. Start from the quote form; measurements are agreed in writing before cutting.