Different size on top and bottom: what to order

Why one size fits only half

A size chart moves bust, waist and hips together. On our UK size chart, for example, each step up adds about the same few centimetres to all three. A body whose hips are two steps above its bust does not exist on that chart, so it has to pick.

Picking the larger size leaves the top loose: shoulders hang past the shoulder bone, armholes gape and the neckline stands away. Picking the smaller size leaves the bottom tight: the kameez pulls across the hips, side slits open, and buttons strain when you sit. The same happens in reverse for a fuller top and narrower hips.

One-piece garments and separates

Separates make it easier, since a top and trousers can be bought in two sizes, although ready-made co-ord sets are usually sold as one size. One-piece garments are where it really matters: a dress, a kameez, an abaya or anything that runs from the shoulder past the hip. A kameez is a one-piece garment in this sense, because it covers both your bust and your hips.

How separate measurements solve it

When the pattern is drawn from your own numbers, each zone is cut for its own measurement.

• Smaller on top, fuller below: shoulders, armholes and neckline cut to your frame; room added from the waist down. A gently flared A-line kameez works well, as it widens exactly where you need it.
• Fuller on top, narrower below: room at the bust and across the back; the side seams drawn in below so the hem does not hang wide. Darts or panels may help on a fuller bust.
• Shoulders from the shoulder measurement, not estimated from the bust, so the top fits even when the bust is in a different size from the hips.
• Co-ords cut piece by piece: the top to your upper body, the trousers to your waist, hips and thighs.

What to send

On our quote form, choose to enter your measurements rather than a standard size, and give your bust, waist, hips and shoulder at the least, as the size guide shows. Add how far below the waist your hips are fullest, as it helps place the change in width. A side photo helps too. The option “between sizes” on the form is a different case, for someone whose numbers fall between two sizes all over; our guide to why measurements beat sizes has more on how sizes are built.

Our own designs come in standard sizes or made to measure; choose made to measure if you span two sizes. For any other outfit, request a quote, and read how Fabric + Stitching works if you would like us to supply the fabric.