Handloom or powerloom fabric: what is the difference?

What the difference means for the cloth

A hand weaver controls each row by feel, so the beat varies very slightly from one row to the next. That can give handloom cloth a softer, more lived-in look, with tiny changes in density and the odd thicker thread. A power loom keeps the tension and beat constant, which gives a smoother, more even fabric that is the same from one end of the roll to the other.

Width differs too. A hand loom is limited by what one weaver can manage, so handloom cloth is often narrower, though wider hand looms exist. Machine looms can weave very wide widths, which changes how much fabric an outfit needs; fabric widths explained shows why.

Price follows the labour. Handloom cloth takes much longer to make, so it usually costs more than a similar powerloom fabric. That is also why powerloom cloth is sometimes sold as handloom.

Signs that suggest a hand loom

No single sign is proof, and good hand weaving can be very even. Taken together, though, these points are worth looking for in daylight.

• Small irregularities in the weave. Hold the cloth up to the light: slightly denser and thinner bands across the width suggest a hand-beaten weft.
• Uneven yarns. Occasional thicker or thinner threads, and small knots where a thread was joined. Be aware that slub yarns are also woven on machines on purpose to imitate this.
• The edges. Many modern machine looms leave a fringe of cut thread ends along the edge. A closed, turned edge can come from a hand loom or an older shuttle power loom, so it is a hint, not proof.
• Slight differences between the two ends of a long length, in tightness or width.

Why a label alone rarely proves it

“Handloom” and “handwoven” are attractive words, and they are easy to print. Some places run official marks or certification schemes for handloom products, but most fabric you buy, especially online or in an unstitched suit, carries only the seller’s description. Market names add to the confusion: khaddar is often called handwoven, yet the label rarely confirms it, as our khaddar guide explains.

If it matters to you, buy from a seller who can say where and by whom the cloth was woven, and judge the fabric on what you can see and feel. Our guide to judging fabric quality covers the other checks, and dobby, slub and textured cotton explains textures that are often mistaken for hand weaving.

Stitching handloom cloth

Handloom fabric can be looser and may shrink more on its first wash, so pre-washing it according to the label is often wise, and the narrower width may mean buying more. Seams may need neatening carefully where the weave is open.

If you have handloom cloth you would like made up, send photos, the width and the length through a Stitching Only quote. Our Stitching Only service confirms the fabric is suitable and the quantity is enough before you post it.