Fabric guide
Khaddar Fabric: What It Is and How to Stitch It
Quick answer
Khaddar is a thick, textured fabric sold for winter, with a lighter khaddar for milder weather. Brands describe its fibre differently, often as cotton and sometimes as a blend, so check the label. It’s cosy and comfortable, suits relaxed cuts and simple necklines, and is worth pre-washing because it can shrink.
What khaddar is
Khaddar is a thick fabric with a visible, slightly irregular texture, and one of the mainstays of Pakistani winter collections. Sources agree on that much. They differ on the fibre: many brands sell khaddar as cotton, others as a blend, and some don’t say. You’ll also see it described as handwoven; a label rarely confirms that, so don’t assume it. Light khaddar is a thinner version for milder weather, and slub khaddar has a more uneven weave.
How it feels and when to wear it
Khaddar feels soft, dense and cosy, and it softens further with washing. It holds warmth without feeling stiff, prints well and has a relaxed, matt look. Wear heavier khaddar in Pakistan’s winter months and light khaddar in the cooler weeks either side. Like many thick fabrics, it can pill a little where it rubs, such as under a bag strap.
What to stitch from khaddar
Khaddar’s thickness suits simple shapes. A relaxed straight kameez with a round neck or band collar is the classic winter suit, and full or cuffed sleeves sit neatly under a shawl or coat. Very fitted cuts strain across the back and arms, and heavy gathers add bulk. For trousers, a shalwar or straight trousers in khaddar are warm and easy. If you wear a thermal underneath, tell us so the fit allows for it.
Lining and finishing
Khaddar rarely needs lining for coverage, though a soft lining can make a heavily embroidered piece more comfortable against the skin. Because the fabric is thick, necklines are finished with a clean facing rather than bulky layers, and seams are neatened and pressed flat so they don’t show as ridges on the outside.
Pre-washing, shrinkage and care
Khaddar can shrink, so it’s one of the fabrics most worth pre-washing or soaking before cutting. Advice on how long to soak varies, so follow the label, and leave embroidered panels unwashed. Tell us on your quote whether you’ve washed it; if you haven’t, how shrinkage is allowed for is agreed before cutting. Our pre-washing guide explains the options.
- Wash: cool and gentle, inside out, with a mild detergent and no bleach.
- Dry: in the shade.
- Iron: on the reverse, at the setting the label allows.
- Store: clean, in breathable cotton bags rather than sealed plastic, somewhere cool, dark and dry.
Ordering: Fabric + Stitching or Stitching Only
For Stitching Only, send photos of each piece of your khaddar suit and the label first, and say whether it’s been washed. We confirm it’s suitable and that there’s enough for your design before you send anything. For Fabric + Stitching, tell us the colour and how warm you want it, and whether you’d prefer a lighter khaddar; we propose fabric and agree it with you before cutting. There are no free samples. Start on the stitching quote form.
Common questions
Is khaddar pure cotton?
Not always. Many brands sell khaddar as cotton, but some are blends and some labels don’t say. The label or the brand’s own product description is the only reliable guide.
Does khaddar shrink?
It can. Pre-wash or soak the plain pieces before cutting, then wash cool and dry in the shade. Tell us whether it’s been washed when you ask for a quote.
Last reviewed 30 September 2026.
