Fabrics and care · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

How to starch a cotton suit at home (kalaf)

How to starch a cotton suit at home, from a light spray to a stiff dip finish, which fabrics and colours to leave alone, and how kalaf changes ironing and storage.

Inspiration

The method in brief

To starch a cotton suit at home, wash and rinse it, dip it in diluted starch (or spray starch onto the dry fabric), let it dry until just damp, then iron it on the cotton setting. A weak mix gives a light, crisp body; a stronger mix gives the stiff, sharp finish people often call kalaf.

Starch suits plain cotton, cambric, lawn and voile best, and white or pale colours most of all. Check the care label before you start, and try your mix on a hidden area such as the inside of a hem to see how stiff it dries and whether it leaves marks.

Choosing a starch

Starch is simply a plant starch that coats the fibres and dries hard, holding the cloth in shape until it is washed out. Three kinds are easy to find:

Spray starch: ready to use, quick and light. Good for touching up a collar, cuffs or a dupatta before wearing.
Liquid or powder starch to dilute: mixed with water in a bowl or bucket for dipping. The packet gives ratios for light, medium and heavy finishes.
Home-made rice or flour starch: the traditional kalaf, made by boiling rice and keeping the starchy water, or by cooking a little flour or starch powder in water until it turns clear. Strain it well so no lumps dry onto the fabric.

The dip method, step by step

Dipping gives an even finish over a whole kameez, shalwar or dupatta, which is why it is used for crisp summer cotton.

Start with a clean garment. Starch locks in any dirt or stain left in the fabric.
Mix the starch in cool or lukewarm water to the strength you want. Begin light; you can always go stiffer next time.
Dip the damp garment, turn it so every part is soaked evenly, then squeeze out the excess. Do not wring, which leaves streaks.
Dry in the shade until it is just damp. Fully dry starched cotton is hard to press smooth.
Iron on the reverse at the cotton setting, with the steam off. Keep the iron moving: starch scorches brown if it sits too hot.

Using spray starch

Iron the piece first, then spray a light, even mist from about an arm’s length away, wait a few seconds for it to soak in, and press again. Spraying on the reverse avoids white specks on the face. Several light coats look better than one wet one, which can leave tide marks. For a lawn dupatta, a light spray helps it hold folds or pleats without turning papery. Our guide to ironing and steaming kurtas covers heat settings for each fabric.

What not to starch

Starch is not for every fabric or colour. Leave it off these:

Black, navy and other dark colours: starch can dry as white flakes or a pale haze on the surface.
Silk, chiffon, georgette and organza: starch can leave rings and dull the sheen, and these fabrics have their own body.
Polyester and most synthetics: starch does not soak in well and tends to scorch under the iron.
Embroidered and embellished areas: stiffened threads can crack, and stones or sequins can loosen under the extra heat.
Anything you will store for a long time before washing it out.

Starch, storage and your next order

Starch attracts insects such as silverfish and can make fabric crack along sharp folds, so wash it out before putting a suit away for a season. Our article on storing dupattas and embroidered suits has more on this.

If you like a crisp finish, cotton and cambric hold starch well; lawn takes a lighter touch. Have an unstitched cotton suit you want made up? Read about unstitched suit stitching or start a Stitching Only quote.

Common questions

Does starch wash out?

Yes. Starch dissolves in a normal wash, so you need to starch again after each wash if you want the crisp finish back.

Why does my starched kurta stick to the iron?

The starch is too heavy, the iron too hot, or the fabric too wet. Use a weaker mix, lower the heat a little, and iron on the reverse.

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