How much 36 inch wide fabric for a kameez?

Why narrow cloth eats length

On 44 to 45 inch fabric, the front and back of an average-sized kameez can often sit beside each other, so the body uses one kameez length and the sleeves use a little more. On 36 inch fabric there is only room for one body piece across, so the front takes a full length, the back takes another, and the sleeves come after that.

A worked example makes it clear. A kameez that finishes at 40 inches (102 cm) needs about 43 inches (109 cm) of cloth per body piece once hem and seam allowances are added. Two of those come to 86 inches, and a pair of full sleeves cut side by side adds about 24 inches (61 cm). That is roughly 110 inches, or 2.8 metres, before any facings, print matching or border placement, which is why 3 metres is the safer figure.

Typical amounts on 36 inch fabric, for an average height and size:

• Short kurti, hip length, short or elbow sleeves: about 2 to 2.25 m (2.2 to 2.5 yd).
• Mid-thigh kurta, three-quarter sleeves: about 2.5 m (2.75 yd).
• Knee-length straight kameez, full sleeves: about 3 to 3.25 m (3.3 to 3.6 yd).
• Calf-length kameez: about 3.5 m (3.8 yd).
• Tall, or a gently A-line cut: add about half a metre.

What a 36 inch width cannot take

Once the selvedges are trimmed, the usable width is nearer 34 inches (86 cm). For most sizes, a straight front or back still fits inside that, one piece at a time. Problems start when a single piece has to be wider than the cloth:

• A-line and flared hems: the hem of each body piece is wider than the chest. When it passes the usable width, the flare has to come from added side panels (kalis), which means extra seams and extra metres.
• Kaftan and batwing shapes: sleeves cut in one with the body need a very wide piece. On narrow cloth they need a join at the shoulder or along the arm.
• Very large sizes: a straight body piece can outgrow the width too, so the front or back is pieced with a seam.
• A matching dupatta: a dupatta is usually cut across the full width, so 36 inch cloth gives a narrow one.
• Borders along the selvedge: a border meant for the hem may end up running down the length instead, so check how it is printed before you choose a cut.

Handloom and other narrow cloth

Narrow widths are most common on handloom cottons, some Indian dress fabrics and older lengths kept at home. Handwoven cloth can also vary a little in width along its length, so measure from selvedge to selvedge in two or three places and use the smallest figure.

Loosely woven handloom cloth often shrinks more than a machine-made lawn, so wash a test square first and add length for it. Our article on shrinkage allowance shows how to turn the test into extra centimetres.

Sending narrow fabric for stitching

If you want us to stitch your own 36 inch fabric with Stitching Only, tell us the width, the total length and the cut you have in mind. We confirm whether it is enough before you post anything, and suggest a cut that suits the cloth if it is not. Our checklist for checking you have enough fabric helps you measure it first, and the Stitching Only quote is the place to send the details.