Unstitched suits · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
How much extra fabric to allow for shrinkage
How much extra fabric for shrinkage: a simple wash test on a measured square, how to turn the result into extra length, and why lawn shrinks more in length.
InspirationTest, then add the percentage
Wash a measured square of the fabric the way you will wash the finished outfit, measure it again, and work out how much it lost as a percentage. Add that percentage to the length you need, and round up. If a 25 cm square comes back 24 cm long, it shrank 4 per cent in length, so a 2.5 metre kameez piece needs about 10 cm more.
Whether to pre-wash at all is a separate question, which our article on pre-washing fabric before stitching answers. This one is about how much to add once you know the fabric moves.
The wash test, step by step
Use a piece from the end of the length, never from the middle, and mark which way the length runs before you start.
- Cut a square 25 cm (10 in) each way, or larger if you can spare it. Bigger squares give more accurate results.
- Mark an arrow on one corner with a fabric pen to show the lengthwise direction, parallel to the selvedge.
- Wash it at the temperature and on the cycle you expect to use, or by hand if the outfit will be hand-washed.
- Dry it the same way too. Tumble drying shrinks some cottons far more than drying flat or on a line.
- Press it flat without stretching, then measure along the arrow and across it.
Turning the result into extra fabric
Shrinkage per cent is the amount lost divided by the original size, times 100. A square that loses 1 cm of 25 cm has shrunk 4 per cent; one that loses half a centimetre has shrunk 2 per cent.
For length, multiply the metres you need by that percentage and add it, then round up to the next 10 cm. Width matters too. A 44 inch fabric that shrinks 2 per cent across loses almost an inch, which can stop two pieces sitting side by side and push a layout into an extra row. If your width is close to the limit for your design, mention the figure before you buy.
As general guidance, many cottons and lawns shrink a few per cent, mostly in length; loosely woven and handwoven cloth such as khaddar can move more; viscose can shrink noticeably; most polyesters barely change. Your own test always beats a general figure.
Why lawn shrinks more in length
The lengthwise threads in woven cloth are held under tension on the loom and through finishing. Washing lets them relax, so the length pulls in more than the width. That is why a lawn kameez that fitted well can come out of its first wash slightly shorter, and why the test square needs its arrow.
The same square can double as a colour test: put a scrap of white cotton in with it and see whether any dye runs. Our colour-fastness test explains what to look for.
Sending fabric that may shrink
If you are sending your own fabric for Stitching Only, tell us whether it has been washed and what your test showed. We confirm the quantity needed before you post anything, so any allowance can be agreed first. Add the details to a Stitching Only quote.
Common questions
Does fabric keep shrinking after the first wash?
Most of the shrinkage happens in the first wash and dry. Some cottons go on tightening a little with hot washes and tumble drying, which is why washing the finished outfit gently helps it keep its size.
Can I test fabric that is labelled dry clean only?
Do not wash it. Steam can still shrink some fabrics, so hold a steam iron just above a scrap and measure it before and after, or ask the seller whether it has been pre-shrunk.
Should I add shrinkage allowance if I pre-wash the fabric?
Not for the fabric you have already washed, because the shrinkage has happened. Measure it again after washing, since the length you have may now be shorter than the label said.
