How much fabric for a kaftan?

Why 58 inch fabric matters

In the classic cut the cloth is folded at the shoulders, a neck opening is made on the fold, and the sides are stitched part of the way up, leaving the upper edges open as sleeves. Nothing is added at the sides, so the kaftan can only be as wide as the fabric.

A quick way to choose: stand with your arms out and measure from the point where you want one sleeve to end, across your shoulders, to the same point on the other arm. That span is the fabric width you need. Fabric widths explained lists what is commonly sold.

• 36 inch (91 cm) fabric: ends above the elbows. It makes a cap-sleeved tunic more than a kaftan.
• 44 to 45 inch (112 to 114 cm) fabric: reaches about the elbows on most women. A neat, moderate kaftan.
• 54 to 60 inch (137 to 152 cm) fabric: reaches the forearms or wrists, which gives the generous, draped shape most people picture.

Amounts for short, long and centre-seamed kaftans

For a one-piece cut, the amount is the same on any width; only the span changes. A centre-seamed kaftan is how a full wrist-to-wrist span is made from narrower cloth. The left and right halves are each cut from their own double length and joined down the middle of the front and back, so four lengths are needed instead of two. The strip trimmed from each half is useful for a belt, ties or facings, and on bordered fabric the centre seam lets a border run down each sleeve edge.

A lighter alternative is to keep the one-piece body and add a band or panel to each sleeve edge, which needs only about 0.5 metres extra.

• Hip-length top, about 28 inches (71 cm): 1.5 m.
• Knee length, about 40 inches (102 cm): 2.25 m.
• Calf length, about 46 inches (117 cm): 2.5 to 2.75 m.
• Full length, about 54 to 60 inches (137 to 152 cm) depending on height: 3 to 3.25 m.
• Centre-seamed, from 44 to 45 inch fabric: double the figures above, so about 3 m for a top and 6 to 6.5 m for full length.

What else changes the amount

The two-length rule covers a plain fabric and a simple neckline. These details add to it, or change how the pieces are cut.

• One-way prints: folding at the shoulder turns the print upside down on the back. The cutter adds a shoulder seam instead, which needs the same fabric plus a small seam allowance.
• Large motifs: allow up to one extra pattern repeat so a motif can be centred on the front.
• Ties, belt and facings: about 0.25 m if they cannot come from offcuts.
• Height and heels: a full-length kaftan is measured from the shoulder beside the neck to the floor in your shoes, and every inch you add is needed twice.
• An inner layer: sheer chiffon and georgette are usually worn over a separate slip, which is cut slimmer and takes less.
• Shrinkage: for cotton, linen and viscose that will be washed first, buy a little over.

Having a kaftan made to measure

The shape is loose, but the neckline, the length, the side slits and where the side seams stop still need agreeing; our guide to the kaftan-style kameez covers those choices. If you are sending your own fabric, give its length and width, a photo and the span you want. With a Stitching Only quote we confirm the fabric is suitable and sufficient before you post it to us in Pakistan.

If you would prefer us to supply it, Fabric + Stitching means the agreed fabric comes from us, in a width that suits the design.