How much fabric for an abaya? Metres by cut and height

Metres and yards by cut

The cut changes the total more than anything else; the butterfly and umbrella and flared guides show why those shapes are so hungry for cloth.

These quantities assume a plain cloth with no direction to its pattern, a full-length abaya and long sleeves.

• Straight, set-in sleeves: 2.5 to 3 m (2.75 to 3.25 yd) on 150 cm cloth; 3.5 to 4.5 m (3.75 to 5 yd) on 112 cm cloth.
• A-line: 3 to 3.5 m (3.25 to 3.75 yd) on 150 cm cloth; 4 to 5 m (4.5 to 5.5 yd) on 112 cm cloth.
• Butterfly: 3 to 3.5 m (3.25 to 3.75 yd) on 150 cm cloth, because front and back each take the full width. On 112 cm cloth the wings have to be pieced, and you need 4 to 4.5 m (4.5 to 5 yd).
• Umbrella or full flare: 4.5 to 6 m (5 to 6.5 yd) on 150 cm cloth; 6 to 8 m (6.5 to 8.75 yd) on 112 cm cloth, depending on how wide the hem sweeps.

Why width matters so much

On a wide roll, the front and back of a slim, straight abaya can sometimes sit side by side, so you need little more than one body length plus the sleeves. Once the panels are too wide for that, each takes its own length of cloth and the total jumps. On a narrow roll they never sit side by side. That is why the same abaya can need a metre or more extra on 112 cm cloth. Always measure the usable width between the selvedges; our guide to fabric widths shows how.

Adjusting for your height and size

• Height: for every 5 cm you are taller than about 165 cm, add 10 cm of cloth, since front and back both grow. Shorter women can take the same amount off.
• Fuller figure: if your bust or hip means each body panel needs more than half the width of the roll, plan on two full body lengths plus sleeves, about 3.5 to 3.75 m on 150 cm cloth for a straight cut.
• Sleeves: wide bell or kimono sleeves can add 30 to 50 cm. Narrow sleeves often come out of the space beside the body panels.
• Hem and seams: normal allowances are already included. A deep hem for extra weight adds a little.

Extras that add to the total

• Scarf in the same cloth: about 2 m, unless a strip can be planned down the side of a wide roll. See abaya with a matching scarf.
• Full lining: roughly the amount the body of the abaya takes without its sleeves, in the lining cloth.
• Belt or ties: 15 to 20 cm, or cut from offcuts.
• One-way prints, borders, velvet and woven patterns: add 10 to 15 per cent, because every piece must be cut facing the same way.
• Cloth that shrinks: cotton, linen and viscose lose a little length in the first wash, so measure after washing. See do abayas shrink.

Before you buy or post anything

If you are buying cloth for a Stitching Only abaya, send us your measurements, a picture of the cut and the width of the roll first, through the quote form. We tell you the quantity for that design and confirm it in writing before you post the fabric to us in Pakistan. If you already own a length, measure it flat and send the numbers; checking you have enough fabric shows how. With Fabric + Stitching there is nothing to calculate, because we supply the cloth for the abaya and the quote covers it.