Stuck zip on a kameez or dress: how to free it safely

When the lining or fabric is caught

Side zips on fitted kameez and dresses are often concealed zips, where the teeth sit on the inside and the lining is stitched very close to them. That is why they grab the lining so easily, especially when you close one while wearing the garment. Take it off first if you can; a zip is far easier to free on a flat surface.

• Lay the garment on a table with the zip facing up and open the area around it as far as it will go.
• Hold the trapped fabric with one hand and pull it gently away from the slider, in the direction it went in.
• With the other hand, move the slider back a millimetre at a time, wiggling it slightly from side to side.
• If the fabric is wedged tight, tease it out with the blunt end of a needle or a pair of tweezers. Avoid anything sharp that could pierce the cloth.
• If it is a single stray thread, snip it close to the slider, but only once you are sure it is not part of a seam.
• When it comes free, check the fabric for a pulled weave or a small hole, and smooth it back with your fingers.

Easing a zip that is simply stiff

A zip with nothing caught in it but that still drags is usually clogged with detergent, starch or fluff, or it is new and the slider has not worn in. Brush the teeth with a dry toothbrush first. Then rub a soft graphite pencil along the teeth on both sides and run the slider up and down a few times. Graphite can leave a grey mark on pale fabric, so keep it on the teeth. A dry bar of soap or a little candle wax also works, though wax can mark silk, so test it on the very end of the tape first.

Avoid cooking oil and spray lubricants. They stain the fabric around the zip and collect dirt, which makes the problem return.

Signs the zip itself has failed

Sometimes the zip is past saving at home. These are the usual signs:

• The teeth part again behind the slider after you have closed it. The slider has usually worn or spread.
• Teeth are missing or bent, so the slider jams at the same point every time.
• The tape is torn, or has pulled away from the seam it was stitched into.
• The stop at the end is missing, so the slider runs straight off.
• The pull tab has snapped. This one is minor: a small key ring or a loop of strong thread through the slider will do until it is replaced.

Repair, replace, or plan the opening differently

A spread slider can sometimes be pressed gently back with pliers, but too much pressure cracks it. Replacing a zip means unpicking and restitching part of a seam, which a tailor near you can do. We make new clothes rather than repair existing ones, so treat any repair here as home care.

If zips keep failing, look at the fit. A zip in a seam that is tight across the bust or hips takes strain every time you sit down. Our guide to how much ease a kameez needs explains the room to allow. Some people prefer to avoid a side zip altogether and have a front opening instead; see kurta plackets and buttons for the options.

When you order a made-to-measure outfit, tell us where you want the opening and whether you prefer a zip, buttons or a slip-on cut. Ask for it in your quote, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design. You can start a quote here.