Ease explained: how loose should a kameez be?

Fitted, regular and relaxed

Tailors use different words, but most kameez fall into three broad fits. The figures are a rough idea of the room at the bust, not fixed rules; the right amount depends on the style and the fabric.

• Fitted: close to the body, often with darts and a shaped waist. Roughly 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) more than your bust. Smart and flattering, but it needs accurate measurements and fabric with some body.
• Regular: follows the body without clinging. Roughly 8 to 12 cm (3 to 5 inches) at the bust. The everyday fit most people find comfortable at a desk and on the school run.
• Relaxed: skims rather than follows, with little or no waist shaping. Often 12 cm (5 inches) or more, and much more for kaftan and oversized styles.

Waist, hips and the places people forget

The waist and hips follow the same logic. A straight kameez needs enough room at the hips to sit down without the side slits pulling open; an A-line or kalidar cut flares out from the bust or waist, so the hips take care of themselves. Our guide to A-line and straight cuts compares the two.

Comfort often comes down to smaller points too:

• Armhole and upper arm: with too little ease you cannot reach forward or lift a bag without the kameez pulling. Our armhole and shoulder guide explains the balance.
• Sleeves: a fitted sleeve still needs room to bend the elbow and push the sleeve up to wash your hands.
• Neckline: a kameez with no opening must pass over your head, which sets a minimum neck width. A smaller neck needs a placket, keyhole or zip.
• Trousers: straight trousers need room at the seat and thigh to climb stairs or sit cross-legged.
• Your day: if you drive a lot, sit on the floor at gatherings, pray in your outfit or carry a small child, tell us. Each needs a little more freedom somewhere.

How fabric changes the answer

The same measurements feel different in different fabrics.

• Crisp cotton, cambric and karandi: hold their shape and stand away from the body, so a little more ease looks neat rather than baggy.
• Soft lawn and voile: drape closer to the body, so the same ease looks less roomy than it would in cambric.
• Chiffon and georgette: usually cut fuller and lined, and the lining needs its own ease so it does not pull against the outer layer.
• Khaddar and other winter fabrics: allow extra if you wear a thermal or a fine knit underneath. Our winter fabrics guide has more.
• Fabrics with a little stretch: some blends have slight give and can be cut a touch closer. Most lawn and cotton have none, so the ease does all the work.

How to tell us the fit you want

The simplest way is to say fitted, regular or relaxed and add a note. Better still, measure a kameez whose fit you love: lay it flat and give us its chest, waist and hip measurements, clearly marked as garment measurements. That shows exactly how much ease you are comfortable with. Our guide to using a kameez that fits as a template explains how.

If you are between two fits, say what worries you. “I like it fitted but hate tight armholes” tells us far more than a single word. Add it to the stitching quote form, and see the custom stitching page for the rest of the process.