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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Abayas · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read

How to keep an open abaya closed without restitching

How to keep an open abaya closed: belts, brooches, inner ties and sew-on snaps, where to place them, and what to ask for so the next one stays shut.

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Four ways to keep it shut

An open abaya stays closed with a belt, a brooch or pin at the right height, a pair of inner ties, or a few sew-on snaps along the front edge. The first two need no sewing at all, the last two need a needle and ten minutes, and none of them changes how the abaya is made.

Which one to pick depends on why it opens. Most open abayas are cut so the two front edges just meet, with no overlap. Add a light fabric, a breeze and a normal stride, and the fronts swing apart from the waist down. If the abaya is also a little narrow at the hips, sitting pulls it open as well.

No-sew fixes

Start here if you need the abaya closed today.

  • Belt: the surest fix. A fabric tie or narrow belt at the waist holds both edges, and a small overlap before you tie it keeps the skirt from parting. See belted abaya styles.
  • Brooch or abaya pin: quick and decorative. One at the chest keeps the top closed but leaves the skirt free; add a second, plainer pin at hip level for wind.
  • Clips or magnetic clasps: these grip both edges without piercing the cloth. They suit thicker fabrics; on thin ones they can slide.
  • Safety pins from the inside: invisible if you catch only the inner fold of each edge. Fine for a day.

Where to pin so it holds

Placement does more than the fastener. Overlap the edges by two or three centimetres before pinning, so the pin holds a proper lap instead of two edges pulling apart. Three heights are useful.

  • The chest, level with the fullest part of the bust, where gaping starts.
  • The waist or just below, which controls the whole skirt.
  • Mid-thigh, only for windy days, and undone when you sit so the cloth is not strained.

Protecting the fabric

Pin through the front facing, the folded band along the edge, because it is double thickness and hides small holes. On fine or satin-smooth cloth, pins leave marks and can pull threads, so choose a clip, a belt or snaps for those. An open abaya over a matching or toning inner dress is another answer: if the layer beneath is full length, opaque and chosen to be seen, the fronts parting stops being a problem. Abaya with a matching inner dress explains how to plan the pair.

Two small sewing jobs

Both take a needle, thread and a few minutes, and both can be removed later.

  • Sew-on snaps: stitch one half to the inside of the edge that laps over and the other to the outside of the edge beneath, at chest, waist and hip. Clear plastic snaps disappear on any colour. Sew through the facing only, so no stitches show outside.
  • Inner ties: a ribbon stitched inside one side seam at the waist and another on the opposite front edge. Tied together, they hold one front across the other like a wrap, and the outer front then closes with a single snap or brooch.

Preventing it on the next one

If you would rather not sew, an alterations service near you can add snaps or ties quickly. We do not alter existing garments, but when an open abaya is made for you the cure can be built in. Ask for a front overlap instead of edges that meet, hidden snaps along the facing, inner ties, belt loops with a matching belt, or a little more width at the hip. A wrap abaya takes the overlap idea further, zip, buttons or snaps compares closures, and open-front vs closed abaya sets out the wider choice.

Put the request in your notes when you ask for a custom abaya on the design quote form. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote.

Common questions

Will a brooch damage my abaya?

A sharp, fine pin through the double-thickness front edge does little harm on most crepes and similar fabrics. On satin, chiffon and other fine cloth it can leave holes or pulled threads, so use a clip, magnetic clasp or belt on those.

How many snaps does an open abaya need?

Three is a sensible start: chest, waist and hip. Add one at mid-thigh if you live somewhere windy. Too many make the front stiff and slow to open.

Why does my open abaya only open when I sit?

Sitting spreads the hips and thighs and uses up width, so the edges are pulled apart. Undo the lowest fastening before you sit, or on your next abaya ask for more ease at the hip and a front overlap.

Softly wrinkled white cotton fabric in natural light

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Put it into practice

Send us your measurements, design images or fabric photos and we’ll send you a written quote.

No commitment until you approve your written quote.