Open-front vs closed abaya: which should you choose?

How an open-front abaya is worn

Think of it as a robe or a light coat. You slip your arms in, settle it on your shoulders and decide how much of the front to close. Some women wear it fully open over a long dress or a kurta and trousers; others close it from neck to hem so it looks like a closed abaya from a distance.

The fastening makes a big difference to how practical it is, so it is worth naming one when you describe your design:

• Hidden press studs or hooks: a clean front that looks closed, with no visible buttons.
• A single button or hook at the neck: the abaya falls open below, which suits wearing it over a coordinated outfit.
• A tie belt or inner ties: quick, adjustable and good if your shape changes through the day or the year.
• Visible buttons on a placket: a more tailored look, close to a coat. Our guide to plackets and buttons shows the options on kurtas, and the same thinking applies here.

How a closed abaya is worn

A closed abaya is one continuous piece at the front, which many women like for prayer, for windy days and for any time they do not want to think about fastenings. The only opening is at the neck, and it has to be large enough to pass over your head without pulling at a hijab already pinned in place.

Ask for one of these neck openings: a keyhole slit closed with a button or loop, a short zip at the front or back, or a neckline cut wide enough to need no opening at all. A plain closed front is also a calm surface for decoration, so if you would like delicate work at the neckline or cuffs, it shows clearly.

Comparing them day to day

• Putting it on: open front wins, especially over a hijab and in a hurry.
• Staying closed: a closed abaya cannot blow open; an open one needs well-spaced fastenings or a generous overlap to behave on a breezy street.
• Layering: an open front works like a coat over other outfits, so one abaya can change the look of several dresses.
• Nursing: a front opening is easier for discreet feeding. Our notes on nursing-friendly kurtas cover openings that stay discreet.
• Warmth: a closed abaya traps a little more warmth; an open one lets more air through in hot weather.
• Pockets: both can have side-seam pockets, which many people find they cannot do without. See adding pockets for the types.

Details to decide either way

Once you have chosen the front, the remaining choices are the same for both styles: the length (most people want the hem to clear the ground in flat shoes), the sleeve shape, the neckline or collar, whether it is lined, and how loose it should be through the body. Our articles on abaya sleeve styles and abaya collars and necklines go through those choices one by one.

If you are unsure, describe how you will wear it: commuting, school runs, the mosque, an evening out. That tells us more than a style name, and we can suggest a front that suits the way you live.

Ordering an open or closed abaya made to measure

Our custom abayas are made to measure in Pakistan as Fabric + Stitching, where we supply the agreed fabric, or Stitching Only, where you send suitable fabric after we have confirmed it with you. The Fabric + Stitching service and the Stitching Only service explain each route.

On the quote form, write “open front” or “closed” in your notes, add the fastening you would like and upload a photo of a style you admire. Your written quote confirms the cut, fabric, measurements and total, including delivery and any import duties, taxes and customs or courier fees, so there is nothing to pay when it arrives. Ordering from the Gulf? The Saudi Arabia page explains currency and delivery from there. Production takes 5 to 7 working days once the quote is approved and paid in full.