How to scent an abaya with bakhoor without marking it

What bakhoor is

Bakhoor is a fragrant blend of wood chips, often including agarwood (oud), soaked or bound with perfumed oils and resins. It is burned slowly on a piece of charcoal or an electric burner, commonly called a mabkhara. In the Gulf and in many homes further afield, it is used to scent rooms, hair and clothing, particularly before guests arrive or an occasion.

Abayas and scarves take scent well because they are outer layers that move through the air as you walk, so the fragrance reaches people around you gently rather than all at once.

Step by step

This is the usual home method. Adjust it to your burner and follow its instructions.

• Light the charcoal and wait until it glows and is coated in pale ash, or switch on the electric burner and let the plate heat.
• Add a small piece of bakhoor. Wait for a thin, steady stream of smoke rather than thick billows.
• Hang the abaya on a hanger. Hold the burner beneath it and move it slowly from the hem upwards, letting the smoke rise inside the abaya. Keep at least a hand’s width or two between the fabric and the burner, and never let them touch.
• Spend about a minute on each area. The inside of the abaya holds scent longer than the outside and stays out of the wind.
• Hang it near an open window for a few minutes so the warmth and any heavy smoke clear.
• Never leave a lit burner unattended, and keep loose sleeves, scarf ends and children away from it. Sheer fabrics such as chiffon catch fire quickly.

Does bakhoor stain clothes?

It can, in three ways. Smoke held close for a long time can leave a faint yellow or grey tint on white and pale fabrics. Oily resin can spit from a very hot coal and leave small spots. And ash or a spark can burn a hole. Synthetic fibres such as polyester melt at temperatures that cotton survives, leaving a hard, shiny spot that cannot be removed.

A black abaya hides a little smoke tint, but not a melt mark. If you are unsure about a fabric, try a short scent on a hidden area first, such as the inside of the hem.

As for how long the scent stays, natural fibres such as wool, cotton and silk tend to hold fragrance longer than smooth synthetics, and textured weaves such as crepe hold more than slick satin. Our abaya fabrics guide describes the common choices.

Where to put perfume or oil

Perfume oils such as attar can leave darker, greasy patches, especially on silk, satin and pale colours, and alcohol sprays can lift the dye on some fabrics. Put them where a mark will not show: the inside of the hem, the inside of the front facing or lining, or the inside of the cuffs. Always test first on a hidden spot, and follow the care label.

If you plan to scent an abaya often, a lining gives you an inner surface for perfume that never shows; see lined or unlined. Washing removes most fragrance, so follow our guide to washing an abaya and scent it again afterwards.

When you order a made-to-measure abaya, you can mention a lining or a dark, matte fabric in your quote request, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design.