Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Shoulder to bust point: how to measure the apex
Shoulder to bust point measurement: where the apex is, how to measure it in your own bra, what the tailor uses it for, and when you can leave it out.
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Measure from the high point of your shoulder, right beside the neck, straight down to the fullest point of your bust, called the apex, while wearing the bra you will wear with the outfit. For many women the figure lands somewhere around 24 to 29 cm (9.5 to 11.5 inches), but it varies a good deal with bust size, height and the bra itself, so measure rather than guess.
Why the tailor wants it
The apex is the most forward point of the bust. It tells the tailor where your shape is fullest, and every piece of bodice shaping is placed in relation to it.
- Darts point towards the apex and stop short of it: roughly 2.5 cm (1 inch) away on a smaller bust and 3.5 to 5 cm (1.5 to 2 inches) on a fuller one. A dart that ends too high or too low leaves a pointed bump where you are not.
- Princess seams curve over or near the apex, so its height decides where the curve sits.
- Empire lines and yokes sit under or above the bust. Their position comes from the apex, often with a second measurement to just under the bust.
Taking the measurement
A helper makes this easier, but a mirror works if you are on your own. Our guide to measuring with a helper has a script you can read to them.
- Put on your usual bra and a thin top, and stand straight with your arms relaxed.
- Find the high shoulder point, where a kameez shoulder seam meets the neckline.
- Let the tape fall from there to the apex. It follows your body over the collarbone; do not pull it towards the centre.
- Check the side view in a mirror, then repeat on the other side. A small difference is normal.
- While you are there, measure straight across from one apex to the other. It is often 15 to 22 cm (6 to 8.5 inches).
Garments that use it, and when to skip it
You need this measurement for anything shaped at the bust: a fitted kameez with darts, a panelled or kalidar frock with a fitted bodice, an angrakha bodice, an empire-line frock and most fitted dresses. Our guide to measuring for a dress lists it with the other dress measurements.
You can usually leave it out for a loose straight kameez without darts, a kaftan, a relaxed A-line kurta or most abayas. For those, the bust and shoulder measurements give the tailor enough to work with. Our comparison of A-line and straight kameez explains how much shaping each cut has. If you are not sure, send it anyway; an extra number does no harm.
How to write it down
Give the figure with its starting point and the bra you wore, for example: “Shoulder to bust point 10.5 inches (27 cm), from the high shoulder point, in my usual bra. Bust point to bust point 7.5 inches (19 cm).” Add it to the notes when you order custom stitching through the quote form, and we confirm the measurements in the written quote before cutting.
Common questions
Does my bra really change the number?
Yes. A lifting bra raises the apex and a soft or sports bra lowers it, often by 2 to 3 cm or more. Measure in the bra you will actually wear with the outfit, and mention it in your notes.
Is this the same as front length?
No. Front length runs from the shoulder down to the waist. Shoulder to bust point stops at the apex, part of the way down, and is used to place shaping rather than to set a length.
What if my two sides measure differently?
A difference of a centimetre or so is common and normal. Send both figures, or the larger one with a note, and the tailor can balance the shaping between the two sides.
