Types of lace for suits: names, looks and uses

Lace types by name

Each of these is sold by the metre in fabric and trimming shops.

• Cotton crochet lace: matte, slightly chunky openwork in geometric or floral patterns, often called qureshia in Pakistan. Sturdy and washable. Suits lawn, cambric, linen and khaddar, and everyday wear.
• Eyelet cotton lace: a strip of cotton cloth with stitched holes and a scalloped edge, the trim version of broderie anglaise. Fresh and summery on lawn and cotton.
• Organza lace: a band of crisp, sheer organza embroidered with thread, usually with a scalloped or cut-out edge. Dressier than cotton. Suits lawn, cotton silk, chiffon and organza pieces.
• Net lace: embroidery on a fine mesh ground, soft and very light. Suits chiffon, net and other fluid fabrics that a stiffer lace would drag.
• Guipure: bold motifs joined by small bars with no net behind them, sometimes sold as chemical lace because the ground it is stitched on is dissolved away. Heavier and raised. Suits cambric, linen, raw silk and winter fabrics.
• Metallic lace: lace woven or embroidered with gold-tone or silver-tone thread. Gota, a flat woven metallic ribbon, and kiran, a fine metallic fringe, belong here. Kept for festive pieces.
• Novelty trims: pom-pom lace, ric-rac and fringed edgings. Playful, and usually reserved for casual kurtas and dupatta ends.

Edging, insertion or galloon

Lace is also described by its edges, and the word tells you how it can be used. An edging has one straight side to sew down and one decorative side that hangs free, so it finishes a hem. An insertion has two straight sides and is set between two pieces of fabric, for example a band across a sleeve. A galloon is scalloped on both sides and is laid on top of the fabric as a stripe. The same pattern is often sold in more than one form, so say which you mean.

Cotton lace vs organza lace

These two cover most suits, and they behave differently. Cotton lace is matte and soft, sits comfortably on the skin and takes the same washing as a cotton kameez, though it can shrink a little the first time, so pre-washing it with the fabric is sensible. Organza lace is crisp and catches the light, holds a scalloped edge sharply and looks more formal, but it creases, needs a cooler iron and can feel scratchy at a neckline.

A simple rule: match the lace to the fabric’s weight and care. A lace heavier than the cloth makes the edge ripple, and a lace that needs gentler washing than the kameez decides how the whole outfit is washed. Our piping, lace and trims guide shows how lace sits beside other finishes, and what width to choose covers proportion.

Lace for a kameez we stitch

Lace and borders are added to outfits we stitch, alongside or instead of embroidery. Name the type you have in mind or send a photo of it, say where it should go, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. If you already own lace you want used, photograph it with your fabric before posting anything. The custom embroidery page sets out how fancy work is quoted, and the stitching quote form is the place to start.