Silk, cotton or micro velvet: types explained

The main types by fibre

Each fibre changes the weight, drape and wear of the finished cloth.

• Silk velvet: light, fluid and lustrous, with a shimmer that moves as you walk. Much of what is sold as silk velvet has a viscose pile on a silk base, so check the percentages. It crushes easily and is usually dry clean only.
• Viscose velvet: soft and heavy-draping, with deep colour and a strong sheen. Lovely in a shawl or a flowing kameez, but the pile marks easily under pressure and water can leave spots.
• Cotton velvet: firmer and more matt, with a short pile and a slightly dry hand. It holds a clean line in jackets, waistcoats and straight cuts, and breathes better than synthetics. Velveteen is a close relative with an even shorter pile.
• Polyester micro velvet: a very short, dense pile that looks smooth and even, sometimes with a little stretch. It resists crushing and wear, is easier to clean and usually costs less, but it does not breathe like natural fibres and can feel warm indoors.

Finishes that change the look

On top of the fibre, the pile itself can be treated. These names describe a finish, not a different fibre, and most can be applied to more than one type.

• Crushed velvet: the pile is twisted and pressed in random directions, giving a shimmering, uneven surface that hides marks well.
• Panne velvet: the pile is pressed flat in one direction for a high shine; it is often knitted and stretchy.
• Stretch velvet: made with elastane for give, used for closer shapes.
• Embossed velvet: a pattern is pressed into the pile with heated rollers; see our article on embossed velvet.
• Burnout velvet: the pile is dissolved away in a pattern to leave sheer areas, explained in our article on brasso and burnout.

Why the label matters more than the trade name

Shops sell velvet under names that point to a place of origin or a marketing idea rather than a fibre, and the same name can mean different cloths from one seller to the next. Two velvets with similar names can differ in weight, stretch and how they react to steam. The composition and care label tell you how the fabric will drape and how it must be cleaned, so ask for them before you buy or post anything.

Every velvet has a pile direction, so all of them need pieces cut the same way; our article on nap explains why panels can otherwise look like two shades.

Matching the type to the outfit

A long winter kameez that should flow suits viscose or silk velvet. A short jacket, waistcoat or straight kurta suits cotton or micro velvet, which keep a sharper outline. For a shawl worn over a lighter suit, drape and weight matter most. Our ideas for velvet as a winter wedding guest show how these pieces come together.

Through Fabric + Stitching, tell us the piece and the feel you want, and we propose a velvet and agree it with you in the written quote before cutting. Start with a quote request.