What is lurex? Metallic yarn in woven fabric

How the yarn is made

Modern metallic yarn is rarely solid metal. It is usually a thin plastic film, often polyester, coated with a fine metal layer such as aluminium, tinted for gold or copper shades and sealed, then slit into very narrow flat strips. The strip can be woven in on its own, or wrapped around a soft core yarn to make it stronger and gentler on the skin.

This construction explains how lurex behaves: it is light and far less prone to tarnish than old metal thread, but it dislikes heat, and its flat edges can feel scratchy.

Is lurex itchy?

It can be, depending on how much there is and where it sits. A lawn with a few fine lurex stripes is usually comfortable, because the cotton around it does most of the touching. A dense metallic net or jacquard against bare skin is the most likely to bother you, particularly at the neckline, underarms and inner sleeves, where the cloth rubs. Cut ends of lurex inside seams can prickle too.

Construction helps a great deal, so it is worth asking for these when the outfit is made.

• A lining in soft cotton under a lurex kameez body, so the metallic side never touches the skin.
• A facing at the neckline in plain cotton rather than the metallic cloth folded back on itself.
• Covered seams, with raw edges bound or neatly enclosed so cut yarn ends stay away from the skin.
• Lined sleeves where the metallic yarn is dense.

Caring for lurex fabrics

Follow the label first and test anything new on a hidden area. As a rule, wash cool and gently, inside out, without wringing. Iron on a low setting from the reverse with a pressing cloth, because a hot iron can melt or dull the film. Keep it away from bleach, and store it where jewellery and zips cannot snag the yarn. Our ironing guide covers pressing delicate fabrics in more detail.

Lurex, metallic embroidery and ordering

Lurex is woven into the cloth when it is made. Metallic embroidery, such as the work described in our guides to tilla work and zardozi, tilla and gota, is added to finished cloth afterwards with metallic thread or trim. If you would like embroidery on an outfit, describe the look or send a photo, and our custom embroidery page explains how we confirm what is possible.

If you have a lurex lawn or jacquard suit to be stitched, send photos of each piece and the label so we can check it, and say whether you would like it lined. Everything is agreed in your written quote. For the cotton side of lurex lawn, see our article on whether lawn is 100% cotton and our lawn guide.