Embroidery and fancy work · 4 October 2026 · 3 min read
Tilla work explained: metallic thread embroidery
What tilla work is, how hand tilla and machine tilla differ, which fabrics and colours suit it, how to stop it tarnishing and how to ask for tilla work on an outfit.
InspirationWhat tilla work is
Tilla work is embroidery made with metallic thread, usually in gold or silver, though copper, rose gold and antique tones are common too. The thread forms the design itself, so the result is a flat, fine shimmer rather than the raised, heavy texture of zardozi. In Pakistani shops the word tilla is used for both hand and machine work, and you will see it on everything from everyday lawn to Eid chiffon.
It is often mixed with resham, with tilla outlining the petals and resham filling them, or used alone for a single-colour, metallic pattern on a plain fabric.
Hand tilla and machine tilla
Hand tilla has deep roots in Kashmir, where tilla dozi decorates the necklines and sleeves of woollen pherans and the borders of shawls. The metallic thread is laid on the surface of the fabric and held down with tiny stitches in fine cotton or silk thread, a method called couching. Because the metal thread never passes through the cloth, it stays smooth and bright.
Machine tilla runs metallic thread through an embroidery machine. It is quick, precise and the source of most of the tilla you see on ready-to-wear and unstitched suits. The stitches pass through the fabric, so the back is a little rougher, and the thread can feel slightly scratchy against bare skin.
Choosing the right shade of metal
The metal tone changes the whole outfit, so choose it with the fabric colour in mind.
- Bright gold: festive and warm on red, maroon, emerald, navy and black.
- Antique gold: softer and older-looking; lovely on mustard, olive, rust and ivory.
- Silver: cool and modern on grey, blue, lilac, black and pastels.
- Copper and rose gold: gentle on blush, peach, beige and dusty pink.
- Tone-on-tone: a metallic thread close to the fabric colour, for shimmer without contrast.
Fabrics and placements that suit tilla
Tilla is light enough for almost any dress fabric. It brings a quiet festive touch to lawn and cambric, looks rich on khaddar and karandi in winter, and catches the light beautifully on chiffon and organza dupattas. Popular placements are a neckline outline, a vine down the placket, a cuff band, a hem border and the four edges of a dupatta. Because it reads as dressy rather than heavy, tilla is a good choice when you want an outfit that works for Eid morning and a family dinner alike.
Caring for tilla
Metallic thread can tarnish and can snag. Keep perfume, deodorant and hairspray away from it, and put the outfit on after any spray has dried. Check the label: machine tilla on cotton often survives a gentle cool hand wash inside out, while hand tilla and tilla on delicate fabrics are safer dry cleaned. Never wring, and iron from the back on a towel at a low setting. Our care guide for embroidered suits has the full routine.
If the thread feels scratchy at the neckline or cuffs, a soft facing or lining behind the embroidery helps a great deal. Turning the kameez inside out before storing it also protects the metallic surface from rubbing against other clothes in the wardrobe.
How to ask for tilla work
Send a photo of the tilla look you like, say which metal tone you prefer and where it should sit. On the quote form, choose delicate, detailed or statement. If you already own the fabric or the kurta, you can ask about embroidery on it alone. Either way, what is possible on your fabric and design is confirmed in your written quote before any work begins. See our custom embroidery page, or the Saudi Arabia fancy work page for orders there, and request a quote when you are ready.
Common questions
What is the difference between tilla and zari?
The terms overlap. Zari is the broad name for gold and silver metallic thread, while tilla is the everyday word in Pakistan for embroidery made with it. Both describe a flat metallic look rather than raised wire work.
Is tilla embroidery scratchy?
Machine tilla can feel a little rough where it touches the skin, especially at necklines and cuffs. A soft lining or facing behind the embroidery solves most of the problem.
Does tilla tarnish?
Metallic thread can dull over time, particularly with perfume, sweat and damp. Store the outfit dry, keep sprays away from it and clean it gently to keep the shine.
