Armhole and shoulder fit problems, and how measurements fix them

Common armhole problems

• Tight and cutting in: the armhole is too small, or the upper sleeve too narrow. It often happens when the armhole is estimated from the bust. Give your armhole and upper arm measurements.
• The kameez lifts when you raise your arms: a low, deep armhole feels roomy standing still, but when you lift your arm the whole side of the kameez rises with it. A higher, closer armhole with enough width usually allows more movement.
• Gaping at the side: the armhole is too big, often on petite or narrow frames, and your bra may show at the side. A snugger armhole measurement fixes it.
• Sleeves twisting or pulling forward: the sleeve is not set at the angle your arm hangs, which is common with rounded shoulders. A photo of you from the side shows your posture.

Common shoulder problems

• Seams hanging off the shoulder: the shoulder measurement is too wide, often because it was estimated or measured across the front. Measure across the back, from shoulder bone to shoulder bone.
• Pulling across the back: the back is too narrow for rounded shoulders or a broad upper back. It needs more width even if the bust is fine.
• Diagonal folds from neck to underarm: a sign of sloping shoulders, where the shoulder seam is angled for a squarer shoulder than yours.
• Folds just below the neck: often a sign of square shoulders, the opposite problem.
• One side different: most people have one shoulder slightly lower. A small difference rarely matters; a noticeable one can be allowed for if you tell us.

The measurements that fix them

Most of these problems come from three numbers that were missing or estimated. On our size guide the shoulder is required and the armhole and upper arm are optional, but for a top that fits well, give all three.

• Shoulder: across the back from one shoulder bone to the other, where a seam would sit. You need a helper, or a kameez that fits; see measuring without help.
• Armhole: around the top of the arm, under the armpit and over the shoulder point, snug but not tight.
• Upper arm: around the fullest part, with the arm relaxed.
• A note on your shape: sloping, square or rounded shoulders, or “armholes are always too tight”.
• Photos: front, side and back, in a close-fitting top.
• A kameez that fits well at the top: the best source of all. Our guide to using a kameez as a template shows how to measure its shoulder and armhole.

Can armholes and shoulders be altered?

Some fixes are straightforward. A gaping armhole can often be made smaller by taking in the side seam and the underarm seam of the sleeve together. A slightly wide shoulder can sometimes be narrowed by moving the sleeve in, though that is more involved, because the sleeve is unpicked and set again. Making an armhole bigger is limited, since the fabric has been cut away; a small gusset under the arm helps in some cases.

Whether any of this is possible depends on the seam allowances and the fabric, and embroidery near the shoulder or sleeve head can rule some options out. A local tailor who can see the kameez and pin it on you is the person to ask, and our guide to letting out a kameez explains what they look for. Altering existing garments is not one of our services, but if the top cannot be fixed well, we can make a new kameez to your measurements: see custom stitching or start on the stitching quote form.