Black abaya with gold embroidery: a design guide

Why gold on black works from morning to evening

Black absorbs light and gold reflects it, so the contrast between them is high without the two colours competing. A little gold reads as fine, deliberate lines on a black abaya worn to the office, and the same lines pick up lamplight at a dinner or a wedding. That is why the pairing suits someone who wants one good abaya rather than a different one for each kind of day.

Black is also forgiving. It hides small marks, goes with any scarf or shoes, and lets gold jewellery or a gold clasp on a bag sit naturally beside the embroidery. Our comparison of black and coloured abayas looks at the practical side of black, including how it feels in strong sun.

Zari or gold-coloured thread, by hand or by machine

There are two broad ways to put gold on black. Zari is metallic thread: it has a true metallic glint and feels a little firmer in the hand. Gold-coloured embroidery thread is ordinary thread dyed a gold shade, with a softer sheen; it bends with the fabric and is simpler to wash. Which suits your design depends on the fabric, the density of the work and where it sits, so write “zari” or “gold thread” in your notes and we confirm what is possible in the quote.

The stitching method changes the look as well. A machine repeats every curl identically, which is what you want for scrollwork that must mirror from one sleeve to the other. Stitched by hand, each jasmine flower comes out a little raised and individual, and mixed work uses both. On every design in our collection, hand, machine and mixed embroidery cost the same, so choose by eye. Our article on machine and hand embroidery goes into more depth.

How much gold for daytime, evening or both

The amount of gold decides where the abaya can go. For daily wear and work, keep it to the edges: the cuffs, the front edges or a shawl collar, in antique gold or gold with cream. The design pages suggest lighter versions too, such as embroidery on the collar only for the tailored shape, or on the cuffs only for the kimono.

For evenings, Eid and weddings, let the gold become the main feature. The cape abaya carries embroidery along the edges of the cape as well as down the front and on the cuffs, and the pleated abaya adds it above the pleated sleeve ends, so both give a fuller gold outline that bright gold suits. The Eid abayas page has more dressy ideas.

If one abaya has to cover both, a medium amount on the front edges and cuffs is a sensible middle course. The matching scarf comes in the same black, so the gold stays on the abaya and the outfit never looks crowded.

Shapes that carry gold well

• Bisht: a full, flowing open cut with wide sleeves, embroidered down both front edges, around the sleeve ends and across the back of the neck. The long lines of gold move as you walk. See the Desert Jasmine bisht abaya and our bisht-style abaya guide.
• Cape: the short cape frames the shoulders, so the gold sits close to the face and shows in every picture taken from the waist up. The Desert Jasmine cape abaya is one of the dressiest black pieces we make.
• Bell: a closed A-line with sleeves that flare at the wrist, embroidered down the neck opening and on the sleeves. Neat and easy to wear by day; see the Desert Jasmine bell abaya.
• Pleated: fine knife pleats in the side panels swing as you walk, and the gold sits on the front edges and above the pleated sleeve ends. The Arabesque pleated abaya is burgundy in the collection, and it can be made in black so its gold scrollwork sits on the darker ground.
• Tailored: a narrow line of gold along the shawl collar and the cuffs, sharp enough for the office.

Black and gold versions of our other designs, and your name in gold

Desert Jasmine is the only design that is black as standard, and the black abayas page shows it in all ten shapes. It does not have to be the only option, because any design can be made in any colour, agreed in the quote. Arabesque scrollwork, normally gold on burgundy, becomes a formal black and gold piece; Palm Arc’s gold and bronze fronds look warm on black; and Wave keeps its gold lines while the teal ground becomes black. Choose the design, then describe the change on the customise form.

Initials or a name in gold thread are another way to make the abaya yours. A monogram on one cuff shows whenever you move your hands, and a name inside the front edge shows only when the abaya swings open. Placement, size and thread are agreed in the written quote, and our guide to initials on an abaya shows the usual places. For a look with less gold, see our guide to abaya embroidery motifs.

Looking after gold thread on black

Metallic thread dislikes heat, damp and rubbing. Spray perfume well before you put the abaya on, wash it inside out in cool water by hand or on a gentle setting, and press from the reverse on a low heat with a cloth between the iron and the work. Dry it in the shade, since strong sun fades black fabric. Keep it on a broad hanger or folded in a cotton bag rather than plastic. Our guide to which embroidery is easiest to care for ranks metallic work against plain thread.

We make each abaya to measure in Pakistan and ship it worldwide. Your written quote lists the design, fabric, measurements, the gold you chose and the total, including delivery and any import duties, so there is nothing to pay on arrival. Making takes 5 to 7 working days after the quote is approved and paid in full, and shipping time is added. On the bell, butterfly and tailored shapes, Desert Jasmine is in our essential tier at £80, with a matching scarf. These are launch prices until 31 October. From 1 November the same three tiers cost £99, £125 and £150.

Start from the custom abayas page, or read the pages for Saudi Arabia and the UK.