Machine or hand embroidery on a made-to-measure kameez: which to choose?

Machine embroidery

The design is digitised into a stitch file and sewn by a computerised machine. It is precise, even and dense, which suits repeating borders, geometric necklines and anything that should match exactly on both sleeves. Machine thread work on cotton and lawn generally copes well with a gentle wash, inside out.

Because the file does the repeating, it is usually the more economical way to run a border all the way along a hem or around a dupatta.

Hand embroidery

Worked with a needle in the hand or an aari hook on a stretched frame. Each stitch is placed by eye, which gives hand work its slight irregularity and raised texture. It takes far longer, so it generally costs more and needs a longer lead time, but nothing else has quite the same character.

It is the natural choice for a small, special detail: scattered butis around a neckline, a fine vine at the cuff, or a finish you want to look handmade.

Zardozi, dabka, gota and mirror work

Zardozi is metal-thread embroidery: coiled wires (dabka and kora), flat strips, sequins, pearls and stones couched onto the fabric by hand. Gota is a woven metallic ribbon sewn along an edge or folded into simple shapes, and mirror (shisha) work holds small mirrors in place with thread. Used lightly, on a neckline or a dupatta edge, any of them lifts an everyday kurta for Eid.

Because these materials sit on the surface, pieces that carry them are usually lined and are best dry cleaned. We keep them light: this is embellishment for Eid and gatherings, not bridal work.

Choosing for common placements

• Neckline on an everyday kameez: machine for a crisp, even edge; hand for a softer, textured one. Both look lovely.
• Cuffs and sleeve hems: machine, so the two sleeves match exactly.
• Hem or daaman border: machine for a long repeating border; hand for a few scattered motifs.
• Dupatta edge: machine for a border on all four sides; hand work, gota or lace for the short ends only.
• Eid and party pieces: light hand work or a little zardozi, sometimes over a machine base to keep the cost sensible.
• Work kurtas: usually none, or a fine machine line at the neckline that survives the weekly wash.

How to ask for it

On the stitching quote form, tell us how much embellishment you want and where it should go, with a photo of anything you like. If you are not sure, choose “advise me” and we suggest what suits the fabric and the occasion. Our neckline guide and dupatta finishing ideas help with placement.

The price depends on the size and density of the design, the technique and the fabric. It is included in your written quote for the outfit before any work begins.