Collar styles for kurtas: band, shirt, Peter Pan and more

The main collar styles

Most collars can be adapted to the occasion. A Peter Pan collar can be small and neat for work or wide and lace-edged for a summer weekend, and a band collar can be plain, piped or lightly embroidered for Eid.

• Band or mandarin collar: a short collar that stands straight up round the neck, usually with a front opening. Clean, modest and the most popular kurta collar.
• Shirt collar: a band with a folded collar on top, like a classic shirt. Crisp and smart, ideal for tunics and long shirts.
• Peter Pan collar: a flat collar with rounded ends that lies on the shoulders. Soft and a little vintage, pretty in a contrast colour or edged with lace.
• Revere or notched collar: a collar that folds back into lapels, like a camp shirt. Relaxed and summery.
• Tie-neck or bow collar: a band with long ends that tie at the front. Feminine and good for work.
• Ruffle or frill collar: a gathered strip round the neck. Playful, and best in light fabrics.
• High stand collar: a taller band that sits up the neck, often with buttons or a keyhole at the back.

Height, shape and structure

A band collar can be very low, a couple of centimetres, or much taller. A higher band looks more formal but can feel restrictive, especially if you have a shorter neck, and it can crowd a hijab. Band ends can be square, rounded or cut away at the front. Tell us the height you like, or measure a collar you already find comfortable.

Collars are usually given body with interfacing, and the choice changes how they look. A crisp interfacing keeps a shirt collar standing sharply through the day; a soft one gives a relaxed collar that folds naturally. Say which you prefer, and bear in mind that very soft fabrics need some support to look neat after washing.

A collar also needs to fit your neck. Measure round the base of your neck with a finger’s width of room, and add it to your notes along with your measurements from the size guide. Too tight and it rubs; too loose and a band collar gapes.

Fabric and pairing

• Cotton, cambric, khaddar and linen: hold collars beautifully, from low bands to sharp shirt collars.
• Lawn: works for band, Peter Pan and ruffle collars, with interfacing for structure.
• Chiffon and georgette: best for tie-neck or ruffle collars, which are meant to be soft.
• Printed fabric: a collar in a plain colour taken from the print, perhaps from the trouser piece, looks sharp and deliberate.
• Plackets: collars and plackets and buttons work together, so choose both at once.
• Colour near the face: a contrast collar is a good place for a colour you love; see our colour guide.

What to tell us

Add these to the design notes on the stitching quote form, or choose “advise me”. Adding a collar to a kurta you already own is a job for a local tailor, as alterations and restyling of existing garments are not one of our services.

• Collar style: from the list above, with a reference photo.
• Height and ends: in centimetres, and square or rounded.
• Structure: crisp or soft.
• Opening: front placket, keyhole or back fastening.
• Colour: self fabric or contrast.
• Trim: plain, piped, lace-edged or lightly embellished.