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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Styles and design · 30 September 2026 · 4 min read

Collar styles for kurtas: band, shirt, Peter Pan and more

Band, shirt, Peter Pan, revere, tie-neck and ruffle collars for kurtas: how each looks, which fabrics hold them, and how to describe the height and finish you want.

Gold-handled scissors, a tape measure, orange thread and a needle on a white surfaceInspiration

Why choose a collar

A collar gives a kurta structure and polish that an open neckline cannot. It frames the face, looks smart under a blazer or coat, and turns a simple cotton kurta into something you can wear to the office. Our neckline guide covers open necklines; this guide is about collars, the pieces of fabric that stand up or fold over at the neck.

Collars suit a practical wardrobe too. A low band collar lies flat under a hijab, and a shirt collar gives a neat frame to plain cotton that might otherwise look bare.

The main collar styles

Most collars can be adapted to the occasion. A Peter Pan collar can be small and neat for work or wide and lace-edged for a summer weekend, and a band collar can be plain, piped or lightly embroidered for Eid.

  • Band or mandarin collar: a short collar that stands straight up round the neck, usually with a front opening. Clean, modest and the most popular kurta collar.
  • Shirt collar: a band with a folded collar on top, like a classic shirt. Crisp and smart, ideal for tunics and long shirts.
  • Peter Pan collar: a flat collar with rounded ends that lies on the shoulders. Soft and a little vintage, pretty in a contrast colour or edged with lace.
  • Revere or notched collar: a collar that folds back into lapels, like a camp shirt. Relaxed and summery.
  • Tie-neck or bow collar: a band with long ends that tie at the front. Feminine and good for work.
  • Ruffle or frill collar: a gathered strip round the neck. Playful, and best in light fabrics.
  • High stand collar: a taller band that sits up the neck, often with buttons or a keyhole at the back.

Height, shape and structure

A band collar can be very low, a couple of centimetres, or much taller. A higher band looks more formal but can feel restrictive, especially if you have a shorter neck, and it can crowd a hijab. Band ends can be square, rounded or cut away at the front. Tell us the height you like, or measure a collar you already find comfortable.

Collars are usually given body with interfacing, and the choice changes how they look. A crisp interfacing keeps a shirt collar standing sharply through the day; a soft one gives a relaxed collar that folds naturally. Say which you prefer, and bear in mind that very soft fabrics need some support to look neat after washing.

A collar also needs to fit your neck. Measure round the base of your neck with a finger’s width of room, and add it to your notes along with your measurements from the size guide. Too tight and it rubs; too loose and a band collar gapes.

Fabric and pairing

  • Cotton, cambric, khaddar and linen: hold collars beautifully, from low bands to sharp shirt collars.
  • Lawn: works for band, Peter Pan and ruffle collars, with interfacing for structure.
  • Chiffon and georgette: best for tie-neck or ruffle collars, which are meant to be soft.
  • Printed fabric: a collar in a plain colour taken from the print, perhaps from the trouser piece, looks sharp and deliberate.
  • Plackets: collars and plackets and buttons work together, so choose both at once.
  • Colour near the face: a contrast collar is a good place for a colour you love; see our colour guide.

What to tell us

Add these to the design notes on the stitching quote form, or choose “advise me”. Adding a collar to a kurta you already own is a job for a local tailor, as alterations and restyling of existing garments are not one of our services.

  • Collar style: from the list above, with a reference photo.
  • Height and ends: in centimetres, and square or rounded.
  • Structure: crisp or soft.
  • Opening: front placket, keyhole or back fastening.
  • Colour: self fabric or contrast.
  • Trim: plain, piped, lace-edged or lightly embellished.

Common questions

What is the difference between a band collar and a mandarin collar?

They are essentially the same: a short collar that stands up round the neck without folding over. Some people use the name mandarin collar for a slightly higher band with rounded ends.

Can a lawn kurta have a shirt collar?

Yes, with interfacing inside the collar to give it structure. Without it, a lawn collar tends to go limp after washing.

Can a collar be added to a kurta I already own?

Sometimes, depending on the neckline shape and whether matching or contrast fabric is available, but alterations to existing garments are not one of our services, so a local tailor who can see the kurta is the person to ask. We can make a new kurta to your measurements with the collar you want.

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Put it into practice

Send us your measurements, design images or fabric photos and we’ll send you a written quote.

No commitment until you approve your written quote.