Journal · 379 guides
Styles and design
Necklines, sleeves, cuts, trousers and finishing details, and how to describe what you want.
Design preview5 min readHow should a women’s leather jacket fit? Biker, racer, bomber and croppedHow a women’s leather jacket should fit at the shoulders, chest, sleeves and hem, and how that changes for biker, racer, bomber and cropped shapes.Read - 4 min readHow to design a personalised hoodieHow to design a personalised hoodie you will actually wear: the fit and length, the colour, what to embroider, where it goes and what to send us.Read

- 5 min readPreparing a brief for a clothing manufacturerFor boutiques and brands: what to put in a clothing manufacturing brief, from references and specs to fabric, embroidery, sizes, quantities, labels and dates.Read

- 4 min readWhat colour should your first formal suit be?What colour formal suit should you choose when one outfit must cover several events? A deep jewel shade usually works hardest; here is how it compares with pastels.Read

- 4 min readBeige, fawn, camel or skin: which neutral is which?Fawn vs beige, camel vs tan and the shop term skin, placed on one scale from pale to deep and pink to yellow, so you can name the exact neutral you mean in a brief.Read

- 4 min readHow to find your skin undertone at homeHow to find your skin undertone with three home checks: white against cream, gold against silver and your sun habits, then a dupatta drape test to settle it.Read

- 4 min readWhat counts as a neutral colour in clothes?What are neutral colours in clothing? Black, white, grey, beige and cream, plus a clear answer on navy, olive, denim blue and maroon and how a wardrobe uses them.Read

- 4 min readRani pink, magenta, fuchsia or shocking pink?Magenta vs fuchsia, rani pink, hot pink and shocking pink: how each bright pink leans towards blue or red, how bright it is, and how to ask a tailor for yours.Read

- 4 min readWhat goes with a royal blue suit? Contrast ideasRoyal blue suit contrast dupatta ideas: yellow, orange, pink, white and silver-grey, which feel everyday or festive, and why navy advice does not carry over.Read

- 4 min readWarm undertone: which suit colours flatter you?Colours for warm undertones to try first: cream instead of stark white, mustard, rust, olive, coral and warm reds, and where to put cooler shades you still love.Read

- 4 min readWhich colours suit almost everyone?Colours that suit almost everyone: teal, soft white, plum, true red and mid navy sit between warm and cool, which makes them a low-risk choice for a gift suit.Read

- 4 min readDo large prints suit petite women?What prints suit petite women? Large prints work when the motif is in proportion to your shoulders and kameez length, or sits on one panel, the dupatta or the hem.Read

- 4 min readWhat colours to wear with grey hairWhat colours to wear with grey hair: clearer blues, soft whites, berry and teal often sit well beside silver, plus dupatta, neckline and gift ideas.Read

- 4 min readDoes colour analysis work for South Asian skin?Colour analysis for South Asian skin: what seasonal analysis is, why charts can misplace brown skin and dark hair, and a simple drape test with dupattas you own.Read

- 4 min readHow big is the print? Judging print size from a photoHow to tell print size online: rough bands for small, medium and large prints in inches and centimetres, clues hidden in a listing photo, and what to ask the seller.Read

- 4 min readWhat is magzi? Piping and binding on a kameezMagzi meaning in stitching: a narrow bias strip sewn on as piping or binding. How the two differ, where each belongs on a kameez, and how to ask for it.Read

- 4 min readCan a maxi dress or shirt dress have pockets?Can you have a maxi dress with pockets? Usually yes. Where a side-seam pocket sits on tiered, flared and shirt dresses, and how sheer fabric changes it.Read

- 4 min readWhat is a French seam, and when should you ask for one?What is a French seam? A seam sewn twice so the raw edges are sealed inside. Which sheer fabrics need one, where it works on a kameez and how to ask.Read

- 3 min readOverlock vs interlock: how seam edges are finishedOverlock vs interlock explained: how the two stitches finish raw seam edges, what tailors mean by each word, and what a neat edge looks like inside a kameez.Read

- 3 min readWhat a tailor assumes unless you say otherwiseWhat to tell a tailor when stitching a suit: the six finishing defaults nobody mentions, from slit height to waistband, with a one-line way to state each.Read

- 4 min readWhat is a boxy cut kurta, and who does it suit?A boxy kurta is cut wide and straight with no waist shaping and a shorter hem. How it differs from a straight kurta, who it suits and what to wear with it.Read

- 3 min readWhat are balloon sleeves? Volume, cuffs and fabricBalloon sleeves are full sleeves gathered at the shoulder and again into a cuff. How they differ from puff, bishop and lantern sleeves, and which fabrics hold them.Read

- 4 min readShirt dress or long kurta: what is the difference?Shirt dress vs kurta: a shirt dress has a collar and buttons to the hem and is worn alone, while a long kurta pulls on over trousers. How to tell them apart.Read

- 4 min readShort kurti with a shalwar: which shalwar works?Short kurti with shalwar: the shapes that work under a hip-length top. Pleated, tulip and slimmer shalwars hold their own, while a plain full one can look bulky.Read

- 4 min readDoes a peplum top hide a tummy?Does a peplum hide a tummy? It can, if the seam sits above the fullest part and the flare falls clear of it. Where to place it, and when another cut does more.Read

- 3 min readDo tiered dresses add bulk? Where the volume sitsDo tiered dresses make you look bigger? They add volume at each gathered seam, so the height of the first seam, the amount of gathering and the fabric decide.Read

- 4 min readWhat is a keyhole neckline on a kameez?A keyhole neck design is a small bound opening below the neckline, closed with a loop and button. Front or back, how big to make it and how it differs from a slit.Read

- 3 min readA-line kameez with palazzos: does the flare clash?Can you wear an A line kameez with palazzo trousers? Yes, when the kameez is shorter and the fabric soft. When two flares balance, and when slim trousers win.Read

- 4 min readWhat is a front-open kameez? Open shirts explainedA front open kameez design opens down the centre front and is worn over an inner or slip with trousers. Where it fastens, and how it differs from a jacket.Read

- 3 min readV-neck or round neck: which suits you better?V neck vs round neck kurti: a V adds length to a round face, short neck or fuller bust, while a round neck softens and covers. A quick way to choose between them.Read

More styles and design guides
- Back neck designs for a kameez: which are practical?
- Can short women wear palazzos? Yes, with care
- What is a princess cut kameez, and who does it suit?
- What is an empire line kameez or dress?
- Round neck, U-neck or scoop: what is the difference?
- Which trousers go with a frock or anarkali?
- Which sleeves suit fuller upper arms?
- What to wear with a white kurta
- What to wear with a black kurta: trousers and dupattas
- What to wear after giving birth: the first few months
- What to wear with linen trousers
- How to style a tiered maxi dress, day to evening
- How to style one kurta five ways
- Made-to-measure blouses: soft tops for work and weekends
- How to mix and match the suits you already own
- Can you wear a dress over trousers? How to make it work
- What colours go with emerald green?
- What to wear with wide-leg trousers: tops and proportions
- How to start dressing more modestly, one piece at a time
- Which shoes go with a shalwar kameez?
- How many outfits do you need for a week?
- Smart trousers with an elasticated waist: your options
- Which trouser colours go with everything?
- Printed trousers with a plain kameez: when it works
- Do dark colours really make you look slimmer?
- Yellow suit: dupatta and trouser shades that work
- Should trousers be darker or lighter than the kameez?
- Bottle green, emerald or forest green?
- What colour to wear under a white kameez
- Do vertical stripes really make you look taller?
- How to wear a colour that does not suit you
- Why the same colour looks different on two fabrics
- What are earth tones? Rust, olive, mustard and more
- What is a ditsy print? Small florals explained
- Polka dots on a kameez: dot size and spacing
- Why do seams pucker on chiffon, silk and lawn?
- Shirring vs smocking: what is the difference?
- What is a tich button? Press studs on a kameez
- Turpai or machine hem: which finish for a kameez?
- Frill, ruffle or flounce: what is the difference?
- What is a modesty panel in a neckline?
- Is lining only the front of a kameez enough?
- Front-zip kurta: is a zip neckline practical?
- Pleats vs gathers (chunnat): what is the difference?
- What does fully lined mean on a kameez or dress?
- Single or double stitching: what is the difference?
- Matching or contrast thread: does thread colour matter?
- Which way should stripes run on a kameez?
- Attached dupatta: how is it fixed to a kameez?
- Does a women’s waistcoat need lining?
- Parts of a shalwar: nefa, miani and paincha explained
- Invisible zip vs ordinary zip: what is the difference?
- Bra-strap keepers: a small detail for wide necklines
- Bootcut vs bell-bottom trousers with a kurta
- Umbrella frock vs kalidar: what is the difference?
- Which neckline suits a short neck?
- Which neckline suits a fuller bust?
- Which neckline suits broad shoulders?
- Long torso, short legs: where should a kameez end?
- Peplum or frock: what is the difference?
- What is a peshwas? How it differs from an anarkali
- What is a halter neck kameez? Coverage and fit
- What are izar pants? The wide straight trouser
- Angrakha vs anarkali: what is the difference?
- What is a cape shawl? A shawl cut to stay on
- How to cover your arms in a sleeveless dress
- Can an unstitched suit become a Western dress?
- How to dress modestly without looking shapeless
- What to wear in a lab: covered, close-fitting, practical
- House dresses: an easy cotton dress for home and guests
- Cotton lounge sets: a tunic and trousers for home
- What to wear under a blazer: tops that sit flat
- What colours go with grey?
- What colours go with sage, mint or pistachio?
- What colours go with teal or ferozi?
- What colours go with brown?
- What colours go with olive?
- What colours go with lilac or lavender?
- What is a one-way print, and why does it matter?
- Floral or geometric print: which to choose?
- What colours go with peach?
- Which colours suit henna-red hair?
- Which colours fade fastest in wash and sun?
- Plum, aubergine or jamni: the deep purples
- Do red and pink go together? Clashes that work
- Warm colours vs cool colours: how to tell in fabric
- Why do fine stripes and checks shimmer on camera?
- How to tone down a loud print in a suit
- Can you wear florals in winter? Dark-ground prints
- What is a muted or dusty colour?
- Narrow hem or deep hem on a kameez: which to ask for?
- Itchy seams: which seam finishes feel soft on skin?
- What colour piping should you choose for a kameez?
- Why does a neckline facing roll to the outside?
- Why does my suit have extra seams or joins?
- Belt loops on a dress or kameez: thread or fabric?
- Tacking stitches on a new outfit: remove them or not?
- Closed-side kameez: does it work with no slits at all?
- Should you ask for extra seam margin in a new kameez?
- Fringed hem on a kameez: how is the fraying stopped?
- Why does a collar bubble after washing?
- What is a mitred corner on a border or lace?
- What is a smock dress? Yoke, gathers and ease
- What are slit sleeves? Open sleeves on a kameez
- A-line kameez vs frock: where does the flare start?
- Angrakha vs wrap dress: what is the difference?
- What are tulip sleeves? Overlapping petal panels
- Koti, waistcoat or shrug: what is the difference?
- Coat collar on a kameez: lapels and notches explained
- What is a raglan sleeve on a kurta?
- What is a tie-neck kurta? Bows, ties and necklines
- Paan gala and matka gala: what the names mean
- What are flutter sleeves? Short, soft and floaty
- What are flapper trousers, and what goes with them?
- What are balloon trousers? The barrel-leg shape
- Necklines that balance a long neck
- What is a sherwani collar on a ladies’ kurta?
- What is an asymmetric hem on a kameez?
- What is a scalloped daman? Fabric and finish
- What is a drop waist frock? The low waist seam
- What to wear for hot flushes: breathable layers
- What colours go with mustard yellow?
- What to wear when babywearing: kurtas, tops and layers
- What colours go with sky blue?
- The three-colour rule for outfits, explained simply
- How to wear an oversized shirt without drowning in it
- How to wear a belt with a kurta or kameez
- What colours go with dusty pink?
- A long open-front shirt: the layer that adds coverage
- What to wear with white trousers
- A-line midi skirts made to measure: what to decide
- Leggings or trousers with a tunic or long kurta?
- How long should a top be to wear untucked?
- How to wear a jumper over a kurta
- How to dress down a formal kameez for everyday wear
- What to wear working in a nursery or childcare
- All-black work dress code: outfits that stay smart
- A personal uniform: one silhouette in several fabrics
- What colours go with a gold or champagne suit?
- Hot pink suit: colours that calm it or match it
- Which hijab goes with a printed kameez?
- Rust, burnt orange or terracotta: the difference
- What colours go with orange or rust?
- Can fabric be matched to a Pantone or hex code?
- Purple suit: contrast dupatta and trouser colours
- Which dupatta colours go with most suits?
- Two-colour kameez: where should the second colour go?
- Does kameez length include the lace at the hem?
- Where should a large motif sit on a kameez front?
- Joined or free-hanging lining: which for a kameez?
- Necklines that flatter a small bust
- Which sleeves suit a frock or anarkali?
- What is a handkerchief hem? Points and drape
- Bell sleeves with palazzos: is it too much flare?
- Capri trousers with a kurti: where should they end?
- Who does a shirt dress suit? Bust, hips and height
- Shift dress vs sheath dress: what is the difference?
- Who does a Patiala shalwar suit? Height and frame
- What is a jacket-style kurti? Attached or separate
- A-line skirt vs pencil skirt: which suits you?
- Which neckline suits a frock or anarkali?
- Which sleeves suit slim or thin arms?
- Curved or straight hem: which suits wide hips?
- What is a double-layer kameez? Two shirts in one
- A-line vs fit and flare dress: the difference
- Cold shoulder vs off-shoulder: the difference
- Tulip shalwar vs dhoti shalwar: telling them apart
- Square neck vs sweetheart neck: how they differ
- Does a yoke suit a fuller bust?
- High neck or collar on a kameez: the difference
- Kimono, dolman or batwing sleeves: the difference
- Which trousers suit fuller thighs and hips?
- Bell, trumpet or flared sleeves: the difference
- Cigarette pants vs pencil trousers: any difference?
- Which sleeves suit broad shoulders?
- Which neckline works under a waistcoat or koti?
- Long kameez with a sharara or gharara: can it work?
- Collar with a V opening: what is this neckline called?
- Necklines for narrow or sloping shoulders
- Which side do buttons go on a women’s kurta?
- Pyjama or trouser: what is the difference?
- What is a shalwar kameez? The three pieces explained
- What does eastern wear mean? Eastern vs western clothes
- What is a bodice? The top half of a dress explained
- What is a dart? Bust, waist and fish darts explained
- What is an Alia cut kurti? The shop name explained
- Slit, vent or kick pleat: what is the difference?
- What does cut on the bias mean? Bias-cut clothes explained
- Lining, interlining, interfacing, facing: which is which?
- What is a godet? Godets, gores and kalis compared
- What is a bar tack? Why slit tops and pockets need one
- What is a cowl neck? Draped necklines explained
- What is mori (mohri)? Sleeve and trouser openings explained
- Sleeve cuffs (kaf): band, buttoned and elastic compared
- What does ruched mean? Ruching vs gathers
- What does tapered mean on trousers and sleeves?
- What is a hook and eye? Where it goes on a kameez or dress
- What is stay stitching? Necklines that keep their shape
- What is a paperbag waist? Gathered high-waisted trousers
- What is a kaaj? Buttonholes on a kameez explained
- What are churidar sleeves? Churi bazu explained
- What is a Nayra cut kurti? Flare, slits and fit
- What is boning in a dress, and does a kameez need it?
- What does self fabric mean? Self vs contrast trims
- Shirt, blouse or top: what each word means when ordering
- Knife, box or inverted pleat: what is the difference?
- Pleated or flat-front trousers: what the terms mean
- Jumpsuit, playsuit or romper: what is the difference?
- Single-breasted or double-breasted: the difference
- Side zip, back zip or fly front: women’s trouser openings
- Waistcoat or vest? UK and US clothing words compared
- How to wear a maxi dress in winter
- Is it OK to repeat outfits at work?
- Pinafore dresses: what to wear under one, and ordering it
- Waistcoat and trouser sets for women: how to wear one
- What to wear for a job where you stand all day
- Skirt co-ords: a matching top and skirt made to measure
- A dress-extender slip: adding length to a short dress
- What to wear when you work at weddings
- Easy-fastening clothes for stiff hands or shoulders
- Clothes for wheelchair users: asking for a seated cut
- Which Western pieces go with a wardrobe of kurtas?
- How to wear a dupatta with Western clothes
- How to look put together in simple clothes
- Winter dresses with sleeves, made to measure
- What to wear back to work after maternity leave
- What colour is zinc? The blue-grey explained
- What does self print mean on a suit?
- What colour is mehndi green?
- Which dupatta colour goes with a red suit?
- How to find a contrast colour for any suit
- What are jewel tones? The colours and how to wear them
- How to mix two prints in one outfit
- What are pastel colours? Shades and how they differ
- Peach, coral or salmon: which is which?
- Wheatish skin: which suit colours bring it out?
- Which colours hide stains, dust and lint?
- Gingham, plaid, tartan or check: the difference
- Which prints flatter a fuller figure?
- Which colours look good on dark skin tones?
- Hijab colour near your face: how to pick a shade
- Olive skin undertone: shades that work with it
- Why do some colours wash you out?
- Which colours photograph well, and which do not?
- Colours for a cool undertone: what to try first
- What is pico (peeko) on a dupatta?
- What is a shameez? Slip vs sewn-in lining for a kameez
- What is a belt shalwar? A shalwar with a flat yoke
- What is pintex? Pintucks on kameez and trousers
- Facing or piping: how should a neckline be finished?
- Should the print match at the seams of a kameez?
- What is buckram (bukram), and where is it used?
- Do white trousers need lining, and how far down?
- Zip or buttons: which closure for a kameez or dress?
- Can a shalwar or trousers have pockets?
- What is a tulip shalwar? Petal fronts explained
- What is a dhoti shalwar? Drape, pleats and fit
- What is a farshi shalwar? The floor-length cut
- Kurta, kurti or kameez: what is the difference?
- Shalwar vs trousers: what is the difference?
- Can short women wear maxi dresses?
- Types of salwar suit: what each name means
- Frock, maxi or gown: what is the difference?
- Midi or maxi dress: where should each one end?
- Culottes vs palazzo: what is the difference?
- Churidar vs leggings: what is the difference?
- What are cape sleeves? Drape, length and fabric
- What is a tiered dress? Tiers, gathers and flare
- What is a high-low hem on a kurta?
- What are bishop sleeves, and who do they suit?
- Made-to-measure maxi skirts: length, waist and lining
- Made-to-measure wrap dresses: neckline, ties and coverage
- Made-to-measure women’s shirts: what to ask for
- Made-to-measure wide-leg trousers: rise, width and length
- A made-to-measure work dress with sleeves: what to ask
- Summer dresses with sleeves, made to measure
- What colours go with navy? Building a navy capsule
- What to wear with culottes: tops, shoes and lengths
- What colours go with beige?
- What colours go with maroon?
- Which dress colour is the most versatile?
- Made-to-measure pencil skirts: fit, vent and length
- What to wear with a maxi skirt: tops that balance it
- What to wear when working from home
- Can you wear a kurta as a dress?
- Design your own shalwar kameez online, step by step
- Design your own dress online: shape, sleeves and fabric
- Having an outfit made from your own sketch
- Recreating a dress from a picture: reading the details
- How to build an inspiration board for a custom outfit
- Describing an outfit design in words, without a photo
- Choosing colours and prints for a custom design
- Mixing details from several photos without clashing
- Customising one of our designs: what you can change
- Designing a custom Eid outfit from your own idea
- Adapting a custom design for tall, petite and plus sizes
- Custom design mistakes to avoid before you order
- How a custom design is agreed in writing before cutting
- Designing a custom party outfit for dinners and dholkis
- Designing a custom co-ord set: proportion and detail
- Modest dressing ideas with shalwar kameez: 10 outfits
- Long kameez with full sleeves: measuring for a modest cut
- Modest job interview outfits that look polished
- Non see-through fabrics for modest outfits, and how to test
- Modest workwear for women: outfits for every dress code
- Modest wedding guest outfits for every event of the week
- Modest maxi dress made to measure: what to ask for
- Modest holiday outfits: what to pack for sun and cities
- Layering for modesty in summer heat without overheating
- Modest outfits from a morning walk to the school run
- Colours for modest outfits: tonal dressing made simple
- A modest capsule wardrobe built from made-to-measure pieces
- What to wear for a family visit: modest and comfortable
- Comfortable outfits for long gatherings and prayers
- Making a design more modest: sleeves, lining and length
- Pairing necklines and sleeves on a kameez
- Kameez length and trouser style: pairings that work
- Kurta and trouser sets: a two-piece that stands alone
- Dressy co-ord sets for Eid and evenings
- Long maxi kameez: ordering a floor-length kameez
- Angrakha style kameez: what to pair it with
- Sharara, gharara or palazzo: which wide trouser?
- Fusion outfits: kurtas with jeans, skirts and blazers
- Made-to-measure maxi dresses: length, sleeves and shape
- How to style a shirt dress for work, weekends and travel
- Layering a waistcoat or jacket over a kameez
- How to style a dupatta for every neckline
- Choosing a kameez silhouette for your shape
- Monochrome and tonal three-piece suits
- Plain suits with presence: texture, cut and detail
- Dupatta finishing ideas: edges, lace, tassels and borders for everyday and Eid
- A-line vs straight kameez: which cut suits you?
- Peplum tops and short kurtis with trousers and jeans
- Kurta plackets and buttons: fastenings that look finished
- Piping, lace and trims: small details that change a kameez
- Adding pockets to kurtas and kameez: side seam, patch or hidden
- Co-ord sets: matching tops and trousers for work and weekends
- Kaftan-style kameez: easy shapes for heat and comfort
- Gharara and sharara for Eid and gatherings: styles, fabric and fit
- Choosing suit colours that suit your skin tone: a gentle, rule-free guide
- Pairing printed and plain pieces in a three-piece suit
- Modest dressing: sleeves, necklines and lengths that work together
- Made-to-measure Western dresses and skirts: what to ask for
- Collar styles for kurtas: band, shirt, Peter Pan and more
- Yokes and panels: using fabric details to shape a kameez
- Matching dupatta and trouser colours to your kameez
- How to brief a tailor with screenshots and reference photos
- Made-to-measure tunics and long shirts for everyday wear
- Machine or hand embroidery on a made-to-measure kameez: which to choose?

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