Peplum tops and short kurtis with trousers and jeans

Getting a peplum right

A peplum lives or dies by where the waist seam sits. Too high and it reads as an empire line rather than a peplum; too low and the flare starts at the hip and adds width. For most people the seam looks best at the natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso.

• Waist position: measure from the highest point of the shoulder, beside the neck, down to your natural waist, and add it to your design notes.
• Peplum depth: a short peplum is subtle; a deeper one, reaching the hip, is more dramatic and more forgiving.
• Flare: a gathered peplum is soft and full; a circular or panelled one is smoother at the seam, with less bulk.
• Fastening: a fitted bodice usually needs a side or back zip, or a front placket. Our placket guide has the options.
• Bodice fit: close enough to define the waist, with room to breathe, sit and reach. Our guide to ease explains how much to allow.

Short kurtis: length, slits and fabric

For a short kurti, length decides the look. Hip length is neat over slim trousers and jeans; mid-thigh covers more and suits wider trousers. Side slits let it sit over the hips without riding up, and a curved or high-low hem gives it a more modern feel; see our slits and hemlines guide. For where the hem should fall on your height, the length guide helps.

Crisp cotton, cambric and linen hold a peplum’s shape and keep a short kurti looking sharp. Soft lawn and viscose make floatier, more relaxed versions. Sleeves can be anything from cap to full; three-quarter and elbow lengths feel most at home with denim, and our sleeve guide has the shapes.

What to wear them with

Balance is the rule of thumb: the wider the trousers, the neater and shorter the top can be; the slimmer the trousers, the more length and flare the top can carry. With jeans, think about the rise too. A kurti that ends right at a low waistband can show skin when you bend or sit, so choose a length that clears it comfortably.

• Straight-leg jeans: a mid-thigh kurti with side slits, or a peplum that ends just below the waistband. Dark denim looks smartest.
• Slim jeans or cigarette pants: a hip-length kurti or a deeper peplum keeps the proportions balanced.
• Wide-leg trousers and palazzos: a shorter kurti or a fitted peplum, so the width below is balanced by a neat line above.
• Tailored trousers: a plain peplum or a crisp short kurti with a band collar reads as smart workwear. See our office wear ideas.
• Matching trousers: make it a set. Our co-ord guide explains how.

Ordering a peplum or short kurti

Choose “Kurta or kameez only” on the stitching quote form, or “Western wear” if you think of it as a top. Give your measurements, the length and a reference photo, and mention if it will be worn over jeans, so the hip and slits allow for a waistband. If you would like matching trousers from the same fabric, say so, and we’ll confirm whether the fabric stretches to both. Both shapes suit campus days and weekends equally well. The custom stitching page explains how it all works.