Adding pockets to kurtas and kameez: side seam, patch or hidden

The three main types

Which one you choose depends on how you use your pockets. If you only want somewhere for your hands, a tissue or a key, a side-seam pocket is all you need. If you carry your phone everywhere, think about the fabric and a deeper bag. If you want the pocket to be part of the design, a patch pocket is the one to show off.

• Side-seam pockets: a pocket bag sewn into the side seam, with the opening hidden in the seam. The most popular choice, because it does not change the look of the kurta.
• Patch pockets: a piece of fabric stitched onto the front, visible and often decorative. They suit casual cotton and linen kurtas, shirt-style kurtas and tunics.
• Hidden or zipped pockets: an inside pocket, or a side-seam pocket closed with a concealed zip, for keeping cards or keys secure. Useful for travel.

Where the pocket goes

A side-seam pocket needs a stretch of seam to sit in, above the side slits. On a knee-length kameez with slits starting at the hip, the pocket usually sits just above the top of the slit, which is roughly where your hand falls. If you want very high slits, there may be no room for a pocket, so tell us which matters more. On A-line and flared cuts, side-seam pockets sit especially well because the extra width hides the pocket bag.

On a short kurti with long slits, a patch pocket often works better. Patch pockets can be cut on the bias or with the print matched, and edged with piping or a contrast band. A single chest pocket on a shirt-style kurta is a smart touch; two lower patch pockets are more relaxed.

Stopping pockets showing or sagging

• The right pocket bag: on sheer lawn or voile, a bag in the same fabric shows through as a shadow. A bag cut from lining, in a shade close to the kurta, is far less visible.
• A little support: a strip of light interfacing at the opening stops soft fabric stretching as you put things in and out.
• Realistic loads: a phone in a lawn kurta pocket will pull the side seam down. Cambric, khaddar and linen carry weight far better.
• Fit: a pocket adds a little bulk at the hip, so a close-fitting kameez may need a touch more room there. Our guide to ease explains how much is right.

How to ask for pockets

Pockets use very little fabric, and the bags can often be cut from lining, so they are usually possible even with a standard unstitched suit. In the design notes on the stitching quote form, say:

• Which type you want: side seam, patch or hidden.
• One side or both, and roughly where, such as hip height or on the chest.
• Whether it needs a zip or a button.
• Any trim, such as piping on a patch pocket.
• Whether it needs to hold a phone, so the bag can be made deep enough.
• Pockets are just as useful in dresses and skirts and tunics, so ask for them there too.
• For a kurta you already own, a local tailor may be able to add a pocket, depending on the seams and the fabric available; alterations to existing garments are not one of our services.