Does colour analysis work for South Asian skin?

What seasonal colour analysis is

Seasonal colour analysis sorts people into groups named after the seasons, based on three qualities of their natural colouring: whether it is warm or cool, light or deep, and clear (bright) or soft (muted). Each season comes with a palette of colours said to harmonise with it.

• Spring: warm, light and clear. Palettes of peach, coral, warm aqua and golden yellow.
• Summer: cool, light and soft. Palettes of powder blue, rose, lavender and soft grey.
• Autumn: warm, deep and soft. Palettes of rust, olive, mustard, camel and teal.
• Winter: cool, deep and clear. Palettes of black, white, royal blue, emerald and fuchsia.
• Twelve or sixteen seasons: newer systems split each season into sub-groups, such as deep autumn or bright winter, to fit more people.

Where the charts go wrong for brown skin

Because dark hair and deeper skin read as deep, many South Asian women are placed in autumn or winter without much further thought. Yet two women with the same skin depth may lean in opposite directions: one golden and best in warm colours, another olive and comfortable in teal and plum, another cool and lit up by fuchsia. Olive undertones in particular confuse the classic tests, which were built around pink and golden skin.

Lighting adds to it. A drape session under warm indoor light can make most colours look harmonious on brown skin, while flat white light can make almost nothing look right. And the palettes themselves often leave out colours that are central to South Asian wardrobes, such as rani pink, mehndi green, saffron and deep maroon.

A drape test with dupattas you own

You can test the three qualities yourself. Sit by a window in daylight, with your hair visible and little or no make-up, and take a photo with each dupatta draped round your shoulders.

• Warm against cool: a mustard or rust dupatta, then a fuchsia or icy blue one of similar depth.
• Clear against soft: a bright emerald or royal blue, then a dusty sage or muted mauve.
• Deep against light: a maroon or bottle green, then a pastel such as mint or blush.
• Compare: look at the photos side by side and note where your skin looks even and your eyes clear, and where you see the colour before your face.

Using what you learn

The result is usually a direction, such as “warm and deep, can take some brightness”, rather than a neat season, and that is enough. Our guide to finding your undertone explains the warm and cool checks in more detail, and warm undertone colour ideas gives starting shades. The gentle colour guide is a reminder that what you love still comes first.

When you order, describe the colour and send a daylight photo. You can ask for a Fabric + Stitching quote, and the fabric colour is agreed in your written quote; the Fabric + Stitching page explains the service.