Unstitched suits · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
Does the shawl in a winter suit need finishing?
Shawl edge finishing: most winter pack shawls arrive fringed or hemmed with selvedge sides, so need nothing. How to check yours, and the options for raw cut ends.
InspirationOften it needs nothing
Most shawls in winter suit packs arrive ready to wear: the ends are already fringed or hemmed and the long sides are finished by the selvedge, the edge the loom weaves closed. A shawl needs finishing only when it has raw cut ends or cut sides, and then the usual choices are a fringe on loosely woven cloth, a narrow hem, or a bound or piped edge.
How to check yours
Unfold the shawl fully on a bed or table and look at each edge in turn:
- Long sides with a firm, slightly denser strip: that is the selvedge, and it needs nothing.
- Ends with a woven or twisted fringe, or small tassels: already finished.
- Ends with a line of machine stitching and a short fringe below it: finished; the stitching stops the fringe travelling.
- Ends folded and stitched in a narrow hem: finished.
- Ends cut straight with loose threads coming away: raw, and they will keep fraying until finished.
- Long sides cut rather than woven: happens when a shawl is cut from a wider length; these need finishing too.
Choices for raw edges
The right finish depends on the weave and the look you want. Winter shawls in khaddar, karandi and wool blends behave differently from printed or silky ones, and our guide to khaddar, karandi, marina and linen compares the cloths.
- Fringe: pull out cross threads to a set depth and stitch a line above them. It suits loosely woven khaddar and wool blends and keeps the soft, casual look; our article on fringed hems explains how the stitched line works.
- Narrow hem: the edge turned twice and stitched. Neat on printed and tightly woven shawls, though on thick cloth it can be stiff at the corners.
- Machine-rolled or overlocked edge: a fine finish for lighter shawls that should stay supple.
- Bound or piped edge: a strip of matching or contrast fabric wrapped round the edge, which looks tailored and frames a plain shawl.
- Hand blanket stitch: a traditional finish on woollen cloth, visible as a row of loops along the edge.
When to leave it alone
If the edges are already finished, adding more usually spoils the shawl. A hem on top of a woven fringe stiffens the end and changes how it drapes. Never trim the selvedge off: it is the strongest edge the cloth has. A finished shawl needs only a gentle press, with a cloth between the iron and any embroidery, and pinholes along the selvedge are normal marks from the finishing process at the mill.
Sending it with your suit
If your shawl does need finishing, include it in the parcel with the rest of the suit and say which edges are raw and what finish you would like. Lace or a border can only be added as part of an outfit we stitch. For Stitching Only, mention the shawl when you ask for a stitching-only quote, with a photo of each edge; we confirm what is possible on the fabric before you post anything.
Common questions
Will an unfinished shawl edge unravel?
Yes, gradually, and faster on loosely woven cloth. Until it is finished, a line of machine stitching or a small zigzag a little in from the edge stops the fraying.
Fringe or hem: which looks smarter?
A hem or bound edge looks more tailored and suits dressier outfits. A fringe looks relaxed and suits textured winter cloth. Neither changes how warm the shawl is.
Are the small holes along the selvedge a fault?
No. They are usually left by the pins of the frame that holds cloth flat while it is finished at the mill, and they sit in the selvedge, away from the face of the shawl.
