Fabrics and care · 30 September 2026 · 4 min read

Khaddar, karandi, marina or linen? Winter fabrics for UK weather

Khaddar, karandi, marina, linen, cotton silk and velvet shawls compared for warmth, drape and feel, with stitching tips for Pakistani winter suits in UK weather.

Inspiration

Winter unstitched, UK style

Pakistani brands release their winter collections in heavier fabrics: khaddar, karandi, marina, linen, cotton silk and velvet, often with a printed or embroidered shawl in place of a chiffon dupatta. They are designed for Pakistani winters, which are cold in the evenings but often dry and bright.

A UK winter is different: damp and grey outside, warm with central heating inside. So the best winter kameez for the UK is one that is comfortable indoors and layers easily under a coat, rather than the thickest fabric you can find. Here is how the main fabrics compare, and how to have them stitched to measure for UK weather.

The fabrics compared

Names are used loosely across brands, and the same name can cover different blends, so always check the composition on the label.

Khaddar: a thick, textured cotton with a handloom look, sometimes blended or sold as slub khaddar with an irregular weave. Soft, breathable and cosy, it prints well and softens with washing. It can shrink a little and pill with friction.
Karandi: a medium to heavy fabric with a distinctive grainy, slightly rough surface and a crisp hand. It is usually a blend, and some versions include wool. It creases less than cotton and gives a smart, structured look.
Marina: usually polyester-rich, sometimes blended with cotton or viscose, with a soft, slightly brushed feel and a little give. Warm, easy-care and resistant to creasing, but less breathable than cotton.
Linen: cool and textured rather than warm on its own, and it creases readily. Heavier linens and linen blends are good for mild autumn and early spring days, or layered in deep winter. Brand “linen” can mean pure linen or a blend.
Cotton silk: a light blend with a subtle sheen and a soft drape. Not especially warm, but smart enough for Eid and gatherings in heated rooms.
Velvet shawls: usually viscose or polyester velvet, often embroidered. Very warm and dramatic, heavy to wear, and best dry cleaned.

Which fabric for which day

Everyday and the commute: khaddar or marina, with a thermal layer underneath on cold days.
Work and campus: karandi or a structured khaddar, which stay neat through the day. See our work and campus ideas.
Weekends and gatherings: linen, cotton silk or a printed khaddar with a shawl. See our weekend and gatherings ideas.
Eid in the colder months: embroidered karandi or cotton silk, with a velvet or embroidered shawl for the journey. Our Eid page has more ideas.

Stitching tips for UK winters

A few design decisions make winter fabrics far more wearable in a UK winter. Note them on the stitching quote form, or choose “advise me” and we suggest a cut for the fabric you send.

Allow for layers: if you wear a thermal or a fine knit under your kameez, measure over it or tell us, so the fit allows for it.
Relaxed rather than tight: straight and relaxed cuts suit thicker fabrics and layer better than very fitted shapes, which strain across the back and arms.
Sleeves that fit under a coat: full, fitted or cuffed sleeves go under outerwear easily; wide bell sleeves bunch. Our sleeve guide has the options.
Lining for comfort: a soft lining makes scratchy karandi or heavily embroidered khaddar comfortable against the skin. Read when a kameez needs lining.
Trousers: straight trousers or a shalwar in khaddar are warm and easy; marina’s slight give suits cigarette pants.
Shrinkage and pile: khaddar can shrink a little, so tell us whether you have pre-washed it and agree how shrinkage is allowed for before cutting; velvet needs all pieces cut facing the same way so the pile catches the light evenly.

Common questions

Is khaddar or karandi warmer?

It depends more on the weight and blend than on the name. Khaddar tends to feel cosier because it is a thick, soft cotton; karandi is usually crisper and smarter, and wool-blend karandi can be very warm. For a UK winter, layer either with a thermal and a shawl.

Does khaddar shrink?

It can shrink a little, like most cotton. Allow for it by pre-washing or letting your tailor allow for shrinkage before cutting, then wash it cool and avoid the tumble dryer.

Can marina be stitched like cotton?

Mostly, yes, but marina has a little give and a softer drape, so it suits straight and relaxed cuts and needs a cooler iron. Tell us the fabric name from the label on the stitching quote and we plan the cut and finish for it.

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