Elbow and forearm: measuring for fitted full sleeves

How to take each one

Use a soft tape and wear a thin top or nothing on the arm. Hold the tape snug, so it lies flat against the skin without pressing in. These are body measurements; the room for movement, called ease, is added when the sleeve is drafted. A helper makes this easier, because measuring your own dominant arm is awkward.

• Upper arm: around the fullest part of the arm between shoulder and elbow, arm relaxed by your side.
• Elbow length: from the shoulder point, where a shoulder seam would sit, down to the tip of the elbow with the arm bent. This tells the cutter where the elbow shaping belongs.
• Elbow circumference: bend your arm to a right angle, then measure around the point of the elbow and through the inner crease.
• Forearm: arm relaxed, around the fullest part below the elbow, usually a few inches (5 to 10 cm) down from the crease.
• Wrist: around the wrist bone, or wherever the sleeve will end.
• Hand: with the thumb tucked into the palm, around the widest part of the knuckles. A sleeve with no opening must pass over this.
• Sleeve length: from the shoulder point, over the slightly bent elbow, to the wrist bone or wherever you want the hem.

How close is close enough

A fitted sleeve in a non-stretch fabric still needs some room at each point. In general dressmaking, a sleeve that feels close but comfortable is often about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) larger than the elbow measurement taken bent, with a little less ease at the forearm and wrist. Fabrics with stretch can be cut closer. Rather than adding ease yourself, give your body measurements as taken and say how close you want the sleeve: skimming, close or snug.

Fit at the top of the arm matters just as much. A narrow sleeve set into a tight armhole will feel restrictive however well the elbow is measured; our guide to armhole and shoulder fit problems explains the link.

Churidar sleeves

A churidar sleeve is a long, narrow sleeve cut longer than the arm, so the extra length gathers into soft folds around the wrist, the same idea as churidar trousers. It needs the forearm and wrist measurements, because it stays close from the elbow down, and an agreed extra length, often a few inches (5 to 15 cm) beyond the wrist depending on how many folds you like. Because the end is so narrow, it usually has a short opening closed with buttons or hooks. Describe or photograph the look and we confirm what is possible on your fabric in the quote.

When you can skip the elbow and forearm

If the sleeve hangs straight from the upper arm, or widens towards the hem, the elbow and forearm never touch the fabric, so the upper arm, length and wrist are enough. That covers most everyday full sleeves on a kameez, all bell sleeves, and three-quarter or elbow lengths cut with normal ease. Our sleeve lengths guide has typical lengths for each style.

Our size guide lists the upper arm and wrist among its optional measurements. Put the elbow, elbow length, forearm and hand figures in the notes of your quote request, all in the same unit, and mention that you want a fitted full sleeve. The custom stitching page covers the rest of the order.