Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Why does fabric bunch under my arms?
Fabric bunching under the arms comes from too much upper chest width, a low armhole or a sleeve too wide at the top. How to tell which, and what to add to an order.
InspirationThree causes that look alike
Spare folds of fabric under the arm come from one of three places: too much width across the upper chest and front, an armhole cut lower than your underarm, or a sleeve that is wider at the top than your arm. They all leave a soft bundle of cloth in the same spot, so the trick is working out which one you have.
This is the opposite of a tight armhole, which pinches and restricts. A bunched underarm usually feels comfortable at rest but looks untidy and often lifts the whole kameez when you raise your arm. Our article on armhole and shoulder problems covers the tight version.
A quick test in front of a mirror
Put on the kameez, stand side-on to a mirror and pinch the spare fabric gently. Where it comes from points to the cause.
- The fold runs from the front of the armhole across towards the bust: the front is too wide across the upper chest.
- You can fit a whole hand flat between your armpit and the bottom of the armhole: the armhole is cut too low.
- The spare fabric sits in the sleeve itself, just below the shoulder: the sleeve is too wide at the top for your upper arm.
- Folds appear only when your arms hang down, and vanish when you lift them: there may be extra width designed in, as in a dropped shoulder or kaftan shape.
Upper chest width
The front of a kameez is often sized from the full bust. If your bust is fuller than your upper chest, the front panel is wide enough for the bust lower down but too wide above it, so the extra settles at the front armhole. Measuring across the chest from crease to crease, above the bust, and sending that alongside the full bust solves it.
A low armhole and a wide sleeve top
An armhole cut deeper than you need feels roomy when you stand still, but the sleeve and body are joined further down your side, so there is a pocket of fabric under the arm and the kameez rises when you reach. A higher, closer armhole, with the right sleeve shape, moves more freely.
The sleeve itself is the third suspect. If its top is drawn for a fuller upper arm than yours, the extra hangs as folds just below the shoulder. Sending your upper arm measurement, taken around the fullest part with the arm relaxed, lets the sleeve follow your arm. The sleeve style guides show how different sleeve shapes are meant to sit.
Notes to add to your order
If you are ordering one of our designs with changes, use the customise form and mention what you have noticed in a kameez you already own, for example “extra fabric under the arm, I can fit a hand below the armhole”. Include your upper chest width, upper arm and, if you know it, the armhole depth of a kameez that feels right. Measuring a kurta explains where each of those is taken. Your custom stitching order is then cut to those figures.
Common questions
Isn’t a lower armhole more comfortable?
It feels looser while you stand still, but when you lift your arm the whole side of the kameez has to rise with it, which is less comfortable in practice. A closer armhole with a well-shaped sleeve usually allows more movement.
Will this happen with a dropped shoulder or kaftan style?
Some folds under the arm are part of those shapes, because the sleeve is cut wide on purpose. If you want the relaxed look with less bulk, mention it and ask for a narrower sleeve top in your quote.
