Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Why does a flared hem drop unevenly after hanging?
Why does a flared hem drop? Parts of a flare lie on the bias and stretch under their own weight, so the hem lengthens in places. Which fabrics do it and what helps.
InspirationWhat is happening to the hem
A flared hem drops unevenly because parts of a flared panel lie on the bias, the diagonal direction across the threads, and fabric cut on the bias stretches downwards under its own weight. Those sections grow a little longer while the parts cut on the straight grain stay put, so a level hem turns wavy, dips at the sides or develops points.
It is a property of the cloth, not a measuring error. The more flare, the softer the fabric and the heavier the hem, the more it happens.
Why flare and bias go together
To make a panel flare, a tailor widens it towards the hem, which means the side edges run at an angle to the threads. On a slightly A-line kameez only the sides are affected, so the classic result is a hem that hangs longer at the side seams than at the centre front and back. On a full kalidar frock or a circular gol daman, every panel has bias sections, so the drop shows as several dips all the way round.
Woven threads barely stretch along their own length, but on the diagonal the little squares of the weave can lengthen into diamonds. Gravity does that slowly, which is why the change appears over hours or days of hanging rather than straight away.
Fabrics that drop most
Soft, fluid fabrics move the most; crisp ones hardly at all. Our comparison of georgette and chiffon explains why these two behave so differently from cotton.
- Most: chiffon, georgette, crepe, viscose and rayon, soft silks and knitted fabrics.
- Some: soft lawn, cotton voile and lightweight linen.
- Least: organza, taffeta, firm cambric and stiffer jacquards, which hold their shape on the bias.
- A heavy border or lace at the hem increases the pull on any of them.
Hanging, storage and washing
It is common practice among dressmakers to let a flared garment hang for a day before the hem is levelled, so most of the drop happens before the final hem is marked. Even then, a heavy flare stored on a hanger for months can keep lengthening. Folding a full frock loosely in a drawer, or hanging it by loops at the waist, takes the weight off the bias.
Water adds weight too. A soaked chiffon hem pegged on a line pulls far harder than a dry one, so drying flat or over a rail, as described in our guide to drying without stretching, keeps it more even.
Planning a flared outfit that stays level
When you order a flared kameez, frock or maxi skirt through Fabric + Stitching, tell us the fabric you have in mind and how full you want the flare. If you would like the hem levelled after hanging, or a lighter edge finish instead of a heavy border, say so in your notes, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design. A soft fabric with a moderate flare is the simplest way to keep a hem even. You can start with the Fabric + Stitching quote form.
Common questions
Why is my A-line kameez longer at the sides?
The side seams of an A-line kameez run at an angle to the threads, so they are the parts on the bias. They stretch while the centre front and back stay the same, which leaves points or dips at the sides.
Can a dropped hem be fixed at home?
As general knowledge, a dropped hem is usually re-levelled by measuring up from the floor all the way round with a helper, marking an even line and re-hemming. It works best once the garment has hung long enough to finish dropping.
Does a lining stop the hem dropping?
Not on its own. The outer fabric still stretches, and the lining can drop by a different amount, so the two hems may end up at different lengths unless both are allowed to hang first.
