Should you pre-wash fabric before stitching?

Fabrics that are often pre-washed

• Lawn, cambric and cotton: can shrink a little in the first wash, so pre-washing is common, especially for fitted designs. Our lawn guide has more on lawn.
• Khaddar: a thicker cotton that can shrink, particularly in length.
• Linen: can shrink noticeably and softens with washing, so pre-washing is often recommended. See our linen guide.
• Viscose and rayon: can shrink and change in feel; a gentle pre-wash shows how the fabric will behave. See our viscose guide.
• Cotton lace and trims: can shrink at a different rate from the fabric, which puckers the edge after the first wash.
• Deep colours that failed a rub test: a separate wash lets excess dye out before a pale lining goes near it. Our colour-fastness test shows you how to check.

Fabrics usually best left unwashed

In a mixed suit you might pre-wash the plain trouser piece and a cotton dupatta but leave the embroidered kameez front alone.

• Embroidered panels and borders: washing can pucker or distort embroidery before it is positioned.
• Zari, gota, sequins and stones: water can dull metallic thread and loosen glued stones.
• Silk, raw silk and velvet: often dry clean only, and water can mark or crush them.
• Organza: loses the crisp finish that is often the reason for choosing it.
• Polyester chiffon and georgette: shrink very little, so there is usually little to gain.
• Anything labelled dry clean only.

How to pre-wash without damage

Pre-washing an unstitched suit is not complicated, but the cut edges and the mix of pieces need a little care. Keep the pieces labelled, too, so you still know which is the kameez, trouser and dupatta length once they are washed.

• Check the label and follow its temperature and method.
• Secure the raw edges: a quick zigzag or overlocked edge, or a trim with pinking shears, stops the cut ends fraying into a tangle.
• Use a mesh laundry bag for smaller pieces and dupattas.
• Wash each colour separately the first time.
• Dry it as you will dry the finished outfit, usually on a line or rack rather than in a dryer.
• Press it smooth once dry, so it can be measured and photographed accurately.
• Keep the label or a photo of it: you will still need the brand’s lengths and composition when you ask for a quote.

Telling your tailor

Whatever you decide, say on the stitching quote form whether each piece has been washed. If it has not and you want shrinkage allowed for, ask; how it will be handled is confirmed in your written quote. If a piece shrank when you washed it, measure it again so the design can be planned around the length you actually have; our guide to what to do if your suit is short of fabric can help.

The unstitched suit stitching page explains the rest of the process. With Stitching Only, you send your fabric to us in Pakistan and we ship the finished outfit to you; before you post anything, we confirm with you that the fabric is suitable, how much is needed and how to send it. Our posting guide then covers how to pack washed and pressed fabric so it arrives flat.