Unstitched suits · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
How much velvet for a kameez? Allowing for the pile
How much velvet for a suit: typical metres for a velvet kameez and a shawl, why the pile means cutting every piece one way, and what adds to the total.
InspirationThe figures first
A knee-length velvet kameez with full sleeves usually takes about 2.75 to 3.25 metres (3 to 3.5 yards) of 44 to 45 inch velvet. That is roughly a quarter to half a metre more than the same kameez in lawn or cotton, and the extra pays for cutting every piece with the pile running the same way. A velvet shawl is simpler: one straight length of about 2 to 2.5 metres.
Treat these as typical tailoring figures, not a promise for your order. Your length, size and the width of the velvet decide the real amount, and the written quote confirms it before anything is bought or posted.
What the pile does to the layout
Velvet has a short, dense pile, and the fibres lean slightly one way. Stroke it and it feels smooth in one direction and rough in the other. Light catches the two directions differently, so two pieces cut facing opposite ways look like two shades of the same colour once they are sewn side by side. Our velvet fabric guide explains the fabric itself in more detail.
On ordinary fabric, a cutter saves cloth by turning some pieces upside down so they fit together like a puzzle. With velvet every piece must point the same way, so those gaps cannot be filled. Velvet is also usually cut in a single layer, because two layers of pile slide against each other, and each piece is cut and then turned over for its pair. Both habits use more fabric.
Which way the pile runs is a choice. Pile running up the body gives a deeper, richer colour; pile running down looks lighter and smoother and tends to wear better. Either is fine as long as the whole outfit matches.
Typical amounts by piece
Velvet is sold in more than one width; 44 to 45 inch and 54 to 58 inch are both common. Each line gives the narrower width first, then the wider one in brackets, for a woman of average height.
- Short kurta to the hip, full sleeves: 2 to 2.5 m, about 2.2 to 2.75 yards (1.5 to 1.75 m).
- Knee-length kameez, full sleeves: 2.75 to 3.25 m, about 3 to 3.5 yards (2 to 2.5 m).
- Calf-length straight kameez: 3.25 to 3.75 m, about 3.5 to 4.1 yards (2.5 to 2.75 m).
- Velvet shawl: one length of 2 to 2.5 m at the full width. No pile allowance is needed, because it is a single piece.
- Flared velvet frock: well above these figures, since every panel must face one way and the weight builds quickly. Ask for the quantity in your quote.
What else changes the total
Height and size work as they do for any kameez: a longer body or a hem wider than half the fabric pushes the figure up. Sleeves are worth a thought too, because a full velvet sleeve is warm and heavy, and some people choose three-quarter sleeves, which saves a little.
A velvet kameez is usually lined, which makes it smoother to wear and helps it hang. Plan roughly the same length of lining as the body of the kameez. Facings at the neck and cuffs are often cut from the lining fabric rather than the velvet, because velvet is thick when folded. Our article on choosing lining for an unstitched suit covers colours and weights.
Before you buy or post velvet
Velvet crushes easily, so roll it round a tube or lay it loosely rather than folding it tightly, and never press it flat. If you want ideas for wearing it, our piece on velvet for winter weddings has some.
If you are sending your own velvet through our Stitching Only service, give its length and width in your quote request and we confirm whether it is enough before you post it. If you would rather we supply the fabric, choose Fabric + Stitching, and the quote names the fabric we agree on.
Common questions
How can I tell which way the pile runs?
Run your hand down the length of the velvet. If it feels smooth, the pile is running down; if it feels rough and the colour looks darker, you are going against it. Hold the cloth up from each end in daylight and the difference in shade is easy to see.
Do velvet trousers need extra fabric too?
Yes, the same one-way rule applies to every velvet piece. Many people pair a velvet kameez with plain trousers in a lighter fabric instead, which is more comfortable and needs no pile allowance.
Can a velvet kameez be made without lining?
It can, but most are lined. Lining stops the back of the velvet rubbing, helps the kameez slide over other clothes and makes it hang more evenly. We confirm the lining with the rest of the design in your quote.
