Unstitched suits · 30 September 2026 · 4 min read

Choosing lining for an unstitched suit: colour, fabric and how much

How to choose lining for an unstitched suit: checking what the pack includes, matching the colour, picking one that behaves like the fabric, and how much to buy.

Inspiration

First, check the pack

Some unstitched suits already include a lining. Chiffon, net and organza packs sometimes come with a plain inner fabric, listed on the label as an inner, lining or slip. Most lawn, cambric and cotton suits do not. Check the label before you buy anything extra; our guide to reading an unstitched suit label shows where to look.

Whether you need a lining at all is covered in our guide to when a kameez needs lining. This guide picks up once you have decided you do, and are choosing which one.

Matching the colour

Colour is where lining most often goes wrong, because it changes how the outer fabric looks, especially on pale or sheer fabric.

Match the background, not the brightest colour: the lining should support the print without shifting its colour.
On white and cream: a white or ivory lining keeps the fabric clean-looking; a skin-tone lining can look more natural under very sheer white.
On pastels: a lining a shade lighter than the background usually disappears best.
On net and organza: the lining becomes part of the design, so a contrast can be a deliberate choice rather than a compromise.
Compare in daylight: lay the lining under a single layer of the fabric by a window. Shop lighting and screens are unreliable.
Watch for bleeding: a deep lining under pale fabric can transfer colour when damp. Our colour fastness guide shows a quick test.

Matching the behaviour

A lining should behave like the outer fabric, only more quietly. It should be lighter than the outer layer so it does not change the drape, and it should move in the same way: a stiff lining under soft chiffon makes it hang like a tent, while a slippery lining under crisp cambric can bag and shift.

Think about the season too. A cotton or lawn lining breathes and suits summer; a silky or polyester lining is smoother and suits cooler months, but traps more heat and can cling with static. If you plan to machine wash the outfit, choose a lining that can take the same wash as the fabric.

How much to buy, and preparing it

For a full lining, buy roughly the length of the piece being lined; a half lining at the bodice needs much less. Sleeves are often left unlined. Check the width, because a wider lining may need less length; our guide to fabric widths explains why. Buy a little extra if the lining is cotton, as it may shrink.

Cotton lining can shrink at a different rate from the outer fabric, so washing it before stitching is sensible. Our guide to pre-washing fabric covers when to do it. Tell us whether the suit and the lining have been washed, so both can be allowed for before cutting.

Trousers are worth a thought too. Pale lawn trousers and cigarette pants can show through in daylight, and a light cotton lining or a separate slip solves it; allow roughly the trouser length again if you want them fully lined.

Or leave it to us

If choosing a lining feels like one job too many, choose “lined” or “advise me” on the stitching quote form and send daylight photos of the fabric, including one held up to a window. We recommend a lining to suit the fabric and the season, and any lining is set out in your written quote. The unstitched suit stitching page explains the rest of the process.

Common questions

What colour lining should I use for a printed kameez?

Match the background colour of the print rather than its brightest colour, so the lining supports the print without changing it. For very pale or sheer fabric, a lining close to your skin tone often looks the most natural.

Should I wash lining fabric before stitching?

Washing cotton lining first is sensible, because it can shrink at a different rate from the outer fabric. Tell your tailor whether the lining and the suit have been washed, so both can be allowed for before cutting.

Do unstitched chiffon suits come with lining?

Some do. Chiffon, net and organza packs sometimes include a plain inner fabric, while most lawn and cotton suits do not, so check the label or listing to see what is included.

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