How should a churidar fit, and why does it twist?

Why churidars are cut on the bias

A traditional churidar is cut on the bias, diagonally across the weave, because woven fabric stretches a little in that direction. That small stretch lets a narrow leg follow the calf and ankle and still bend at the knee. It is also why a churidar needs more fabric than a shalwar of the same length. Many modern churidars are made in a stretch fabric instead, which clings easily but can show every line underneath.

Bias cutting gives comfort, but it also explains the most common complaint.

Why a churidar twists on the leg

A spiralling leg, where the seam wanders round to the front of the shin, nearly always starts in the cutting or sewing rather than in your shape. The usual causes are:

• The two legs were cut on opposite diagonals, or one leg was laid off the true bias, so each stretches in a different direction.
• The seam was stretched unevenly while sewing, pulling one edge longer than the other.
• The fabric was not left to hang before the hem and cuffs were finished; bias pieces drop and settle over time.
• A twill or strongly diagonal weave, which already has a built-in pull in one direction.
• Pulling it on twisted: check that each seam runs straight down the inside of the leg before fastening the waist.

Too tight at the calf, or bunching wrongly at the ankle

Tightness at the calf usually means the calf measurement was taken standing with the muscle relaxed, then cut with no room at all. Take it at the fullest part while sitting with your foot flat, which is when the calf is widest. Gathers that pile up in one lump, or none at all, point to a length that is too long or too short for the narrowness of the leg; a closer leg needs a little more extra length to form neat rings.

The ankle opening matters as much as the leg. If the cuff is closed with no buttons or slit, it has to pass over your heel, so the measurement round the heel and over the top of the foot decides how narrow it can be.

The measurements for a made-to-measure churidar

Churidar is one of the trouser choices on our form. Choose it on a custom stitching enquiry, add the measurements and any notes about the ankle, and ask for a quote. The measurements are agreed with you in writing before anything is cut.

Our guide to trouser measurements and the article on measuring for each trouser style show where to place the tape. For a churidar, send these, and say how many ankle rings you like (a few, or plenty):

• Waist and hip, plus how the waist should close (drawstring, elastic or a mix).
• Thigh at the fullest part, knee, calf seated and ankle.
• Round the heel and instep, if you want a closed cuff.
• Waist to floor, standing in the shoes you will wear, so the extra length can be added on top.