Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Why does my kameez stick out at the sides?
When a kameez flares out at the sides, crisp fabric, too much flare, low slits or a heavy hem trim are usually behind it. How to ask for a hem that falls straight.
InspirationStiff fabric meets extra width
A kameez sticks out at the sides when a crisp fabric has been cut with more flare than it can drape, or when side slits begin low enough that the two flaps of hem can spring apart like wings. Soft fabrics cut to the same pattern simply fall straight, which is why the same design can behave so differently in two fabrics.
Snug hips can make it worse: if the kameez is tight just above the slits, it pushes the fabric below outwards. Our guide to how fabric changes fit and drape explains the general idea.
How crispness and flare work together
Every kameez that widens towards the hem holds some extra fabric at the sides. A soft lawn or georgette lets that extra hang in gentle folds. A firm cambric, a starched cotton, a jacquard or organza holds its own shape, so the extra width stands away from the body. The A-line and straight kameez comparison shows how much flare each cut usually carries.
The part slits play
Side slits, or chaak, split the hem into a front and back panel. Each panel is now free at the edges, and in a crisp fabric those edges tend to curl outwards. The higher the slit, the longer the free edge and the more it can flick out. A stiff facing inside the slit makes it stiffer still.
Other things that make a hem wing out
If the fabric and cut seem reasonable, look for one of these.
- A heavy embroidered or lace border at the hem, which adds stiffness and weight in a band.
- A lining that is narrower or shorter than the shell, which pulls the lower edge inwards so the outer fabric bulges at the sides.
- Tight hips, which force the panels apart just above the slits.
- Starch or a crisp finish that has not yet softened with washing.
- A deep, firm hem turned up on a fabric that does not need one.
Asking for a hem that falls straight
When you send your own fabric through Stitching Only, tell us in your notes that you want the sides to hang close and straight. For crisp fabrics, a straight kameez with only slight shaping, slits at a moderate height and enough room at the hip is usually the calmest choice. If you prefer a fuller A-line, a softer fabric carries it better. Send photos of the fabric with your Stitching Only quote, and we confirm what will work on it.
Common questions
Will the sides soften after washing?
Crisp cottons often relax after a few washes, especially if the stiffness came from a finish. Naturally firm fabrics such as organza and some jacquards stay crisp, so the shape needs to be planned around them.
Does a longer slit help or make it worse?
In a crisp fabric, a higher slit usually makes the flaps stick out more, because the free edge is longer. A moderate slit with enough hip room tends to hang more neatly.
Can I keep a full A-line in a firm cotton?
You can, as long as you are happy with a hem that stands slightly away from the body, which some people like on a structured outfit. If you want the flare but a softer outline, a lighter fabric for the same cut, or a few soft pleats instead of a smooth flare, will fall closer. Tell us which look you prefer when you describe the design.
