Measuring for a petite frame: lengths and depths

Where standard sizes go wrong

A ready-made suit in your bust size is still drawn for an average height, so on a petite frame you often see the same problems:

• The waist shaping sits below your actual waist.
• The armhole is too deep, so lifting your arm pulls the whole kameez up.
• The neckline sits lower than intended.
• Sleeves cover your hands, and trousers pool at the ankle.
• Side slits start too low and open awkwardly when you walk.

The vertical measurements to take

Shoulder to waist: tie a ribbon at your natural waist, then measure from the shoulder point beside your neck down to it. Armhole depth: from the top of your shoulder straight down to the level of your armpit; holding a ruler level under the arm makes this easier. Front neck depth: from the base of the neck at the shoulder down to where you want the neckline to sit.

Slit start: from the shoulder point down to the fullest part of your hip, which is where side slits are usually most comfortable. Knee point: from your waist to the middle of your knee, useful for ghararas and for judging where a kameez hem falls. Add these to the notes on the form with a label for each.

Lengths, in your own shoes

Measure the kameez, sleeve and trouser lengths in the shoes you wear most. On a petite frame a few centimetres make a visible difference: a kameez that ends just above the knee often looks more balanced than one at mid-calf, and trousers that just touch the top of the shoe lengthen the leg. For a churidar, give your true leg length; the gathers are added when it is cut.

If you like a long kameez, that works too. Just measure exactly where you want it to end, and pair it with slimmer trousers so the outfit does not swamp you.

Borders, motifs and unstitched packs

Unstitched suits are printed and embroidered for an average length, so on a petite frame the border on the front may sit lower than you want or need repositioning. When you ask for a quote, mention where you would like any border or motif to fall; we confirm what is possible with your fabric before cutting. Our guide to neckline pieces and borders from a pack explains how these pieces are usually used.

Ordering petite lengths

Enter your numbers on the size guide measurements and the quote form, with the extra vertical ones in the notes. If you like one of our designs but need a shorter kameez or different sleeves, those are among the changes you can ask for: start a customisation quote, or read about customising a design in the USA. Measurements and lengths are agreed in writing before anything is cut.